Biological control · Thrips

Thrips treatment that reaches every life stage

Frankliniella occidentalis (western flower thrips) and other species

Thrips spend part of their life on the leaves, part in the flowers and part in the soil, so a single spray or predator rarely finishes them. Biological control works by covering all three: predatory mites eat the larvae on the leaves, Orius eats the flying adults, and nematodes or soil mites take the pupae in the soil.

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4.6 out of 5 · 124 reviews of our thrips predators

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Illustration of a houseplant leaf with silvery thrips damage, black specks and a few small thrips, with a close-up of an adult and a larvaIllustration · not to scale
Egg to adult
about 14 days at 75°F
In the soil
2–5 days as prepupa and pupa
How you'll know
new leaves come in clean
Safe around
people, pets, plants and food crops
Build my thrips plan

1Confirm it

How do I know it's thrips?

Silver streaks plus tiny black specks on new growth almost always means thrips.

Getting the pest wrong is the most common reason treatment fails. Check the signs, or answer a few quick questions.

  • Silver or papery streaks

    Like color rubbed off in thin lines, worst on new growth

  • Black specks

    Tiny droppings beside the streaks that won't wipe off

  • Scarred new growth

    Damage starts on the newest leaves and flowers

  • Tiny fast insects

    1–2 mm and torpedo-shaped, in flowers and curled leaves

Looks like thrips, but isn't

Still not sure? Work backwards from the damage or send us a photo.

2Pick a plan

Which thrips treatment do I need?

Match the plan to what you see: no flying adults, adults too, or heavy damage everywhere.

Find what you're seeing, then add that plan to your cart.

If you see

Damage, but no flying adults

Larvae on the leaves, pupae in the soil, pressure still manageable

Swirskii takes the larvae on the leaves and Sf nematodes take the pupae in the soil. It doesn't kill adults, so the ones you see now live out their lives while you stop the generation behind them.

$85.00

Covered by our Live Delivery Guarantee

Start here

If you see

Flying adults too

Adults in the flowers and new growth, moderate pressure

Adds Orius, the only predator in our range that takes adult thrips, to the swirskii and Sf nematodes in Rapid Response. All three life stages at once.

$150.00

Covered by our Live Delivery Guarantee

If you see

Heavy damage everywhere

High counts in the canopy and the soil, and the damage is outpacing what you've tried

Limonicus on the leaves, Dalotia rove beetles in the soil and Orius on the adults. Limonicus needs about 70% humidity to build a population.

$266.00

Covered by our Live Delivery Guarantee

Good to know: Dark, slow thrips that sit on the leaf blade rather than in the flowers may be Echinothrips. They pupate on the leaf, not in the soil, so the soil half of any bundle has nothing to attack. Ask us before you order.

Prefer to build it yourself? Shop each predator. Just want to keep thrips out? See prevention. Not sure what you're seeing? Take the quick check.

Or build it yourself

Every thrips treatment we sell

Bundles first, then each predator on its own. Most programs need one for the leaves and one for the soil.

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Most relevantBest sellingAlphabetically, A-ZAlphabetically, Z-APrice, low to highPrice, high to lowDate, old to newDate, new to old
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Sf Nematodes
From $15.00

53 reviews
Stratiolaelaps scimitus
From $50.00

33 reviews
Orius insidiosus
From $68.00

12 reviews
Amblyseius swirskii
From $65.00

9 reviews
Thrips Rapid Response - Two Stage System
From $85.00 $105.00
Sale

5 reviews
Neoseiulus cucumeris
From $60.00

8 reviews
Dalotia coriaria - Rove Beetle
From $20.00

3 reviews
Thrips Total Control - Three Stage System
From $150.00 $195.00
Sale

1 review
Amblydromalus limonicus
From $90.00
Thrips Ultimate Control - Heavy Pest Pressure System
From $266.00 $280.00
Sale

How it works

What eats thrips, and where?

Cover the leaves, the adults and the soil, or thrips come back.

Thrips are hard to control because part of every generation happens where nothing on the plant can reach it. Larvae drop into the soil to pupate, then come back up as winged adults, in waves. That's why a treatment that only covers the leaves seems to work for a week or two, then fails.

Illustration of a peace lily in a cut-away pot with close-ups of thrips adults on the flower, larvae on a leaf and pupae in the soilIllustration · not to scale
  1. Adults fly to flowers and new growth, and lay their eggs inside the leaf.
  2. Larvae hatch and feed on the leaves. That's what leaves the silvery streaks and black specks.
  3. Then they drop into the top layer of soil to pupate, and come back up as adults.

On the leaves

  • Amblyseius swirskii
    Amblyseius swirskii

    Eats first- and second-stage larvae

    The standard starting point. Works from about 68°F up to 95°F, fastest when it's warm. Also takes whitefly

    from $65
  • Neoseiulus cucumeris
    Neoseiulus cucumeris

    Eats first-stage larvae

    Mild or early infestations in cooler rooms; fine at 50% humidity. The budget option

    from $60
  • Amblydromalus limonicus
    Amblydromalus limonicus

    Eats larvae

    Rooms from about 55 to 86°F with humidity around 70% or more. Also takes whitefly

    from $90
  • Green Lacewing Larvae
    Green Lacewing Larvae

    Eats larvae, aphids and other soft-bodied pests

    Takes thrips larvae on encounter, not as the main pest. Pair it with a mite program

    from $45

For the flying adults

  • Orius insidiosus
    Orius insidiosus

    Eats flying adults in flowers and new growth

    Adults are visible and you have 12+ hours of light a day. It flies

    from $68

In the soil

  • Sf Nematodes
    Sf Nematodes

    Eats pupae and late larvae

    Watered in. Works in soil, coco, leca and hydro. Every 7–10 days, two or three rounds

    from $15
  • Stratiolaelaps scimitus
    Stratiolaelaps scimitus

    Eats prepupae and pupae

    Stays on in living soil; in sterile mix, re-apply every 6–8 weeks. Keep the surface slightly moist

    from $50
  • Dalotia coriaria - Rove Beetle
    Dalotia coriaria - Rove Beetle

    Eats pupae and late larvae

    Heavy pressure. Hunts the soil surface and root zone

    from $20
Compare every thrips predator in one table
PredatorWorks onEatsBest forFrom
Amblyseius swirskii Leaves First- and second-stage larvae The standard starting point. Works from about 68°F up to 95°F, fastest when it's warm. Also takes whitefly $65
Neoseiulus cucumeris Leaves First-stage larvae Mild or early infestations in cooler rooms; fine at 50% humidity. The budget option $60
Amblydromalus limonicus Leaves Larvae Rooms from about 55 to 86°F with humidity around 70% or more. Also takes whitefly $90
Green Lacewing Larvae Leaves Larvae, aphids and other soft-bodied pests Takes thrips larvae on encounter, not as the main pest. Pair it with a mite program $45
Orius insidiosus Flying adults Flying adults in flowers and new growth Adults are visible and you have 12+ hours of light a day. It flies $68
Sf Nematodes Soil Pupae and late larvae Watered in. Works in soil, coco, leca and hydro. Every 7–10 days, two or three rounds $15
Stratiolaelaps scimitus Soil Prepupae and pupae Stays on in living soil; in sterile mix, re-apply every 6–8 weeks. Keep the surface slightly moist $50
Dalotia coriaria - Rove Beetle Soil Pupae and late larvae Heavy pressure. Hunts the soil surface and root zone $20

One generation, start to finish

  1. EggAbout days 0–4
  2. First-stage larvaAbout days 4–6
  3. Second-stage larvaAbout days 6–10
  4. PrepupaAbout days 10–11
  5. PupaAbout days 11–14
  6. AdultAbout day 14 on
What happens at each stage
Egg About days 0–4 · Inside the leaf
Laid inside leaf or stem tissue, out of reach of sprays and most predators
First-stage larva About days 4–6 · Leaves
Tiny and pale. Starts feeding at once, and is the easiest stage for predatory mites to catch
Second-stage larva About days 6–10 · Leaves
Bigger and more active. Does most of the visible damage, then drops to the soil
Prepupa About days 10–11 · Soil
Stops feeding and burrows into the soil or deep leaf axils, beyond any predator on the leaves
Pupa About days 11–14 · Soil
Sits 1–5 cm down, doesn't feed, and resists most treatments
Adult About day 14 on · Leaves and flowers
Flies, feeds and starts laying eggs within hours. Lives 30–45 days and can lay up to 300 eggs

3After it arrives

How do I release predators for thrips?

Treat the soil first, spread mites thinly, and keep going until new growth stays clean.

  1. Before you order

    1. Confirm it's thrips

      Find the 1–2 mm insects or the black specks before you order

  2. While it ships

    1. Cut back and hang traps

      Remove scarred leaves and spent flowers. Hang blue sticky traps to track progress; take them down for a week if you add Orius

    2. Wait out any spray

      Neem and horticultural oil: once dry. Insecticidal soap: 1 day. Spinosad: 14 days. The label wins if longer

  3. Release day

    1. Treat the soil first

      Water in nematodes or add soil mites on or before day one

    2. Release mites in the evening

      Swirskii and limonicus thinly across the plant; cucumeris in small piles where it will sit still. Aroids: tap some into petiole sheaths

    3. Add Orius for adults

      Only with adults in flowers or new growth and 12+ hours of light a day

  4. After release

    1. Repeat releases

      Mites every 2–4 weeks. Sf every 7–10 days, two or three rounds. Orius every 2–4 weeks

    2. Finish properly

      Keep going until two weeks in a row show no new damage

Conditions they like best

These are the ranges they like best, not hard limits. Short spells outside them won't hurt; only conditions that last for days slow them down.

  • Humidity50% and upCucumeris is fine at 50%, swirskii likes 60% and up, limonicus 70% and up. A dry day or two won't hurt them; mist or group plants if it stays dry for days
  • Temperature55–95°FLimonicus from about 55°F, cucumeris 65–80°F, swirskii 68–95°F. A cold night or a hot afternoon is fine. They slow down, then pick right back up
  • Light on the leavesBright, indirect, or canopy shadeUnder strong light they simply tuck under the leaves
  • Day length (Orius)14 hours if you can, 12 at leastShorter days slow Orius down, not the mites. A grow light on a timer fixes it
  • Soil moisture (nematodes)Moist, not soggyWater as usual. A missed watering is fine; just don't let the pot dry out for days in the first couple of weeks

What you'll see

  1. 1Right after release

    Little visible change, sometimes slightly worse. The predators are building numbers, not knocking pests down

  2. 2The quiet spell

    Adults may suddenly seem to vanish. This is the Ghost Phase: the next wave is still in the soil, a few days from coming up. Keep going

  3. 3As it takes hold

    New damage slows, then stops. Fewer adults in the flowers

  4. 4When it's working

    New growth comes in clean. Scarred leaves stay scarred, so judge by the new ones

Why thrips treatment fails

Most failed treatments come down to an untreated soil stage or stopping too soon.

  • Only the leaves were treated

    Pupae in the soil keep supplying new adults. Add nematodes or soil mites

  • Stopped during the Ghost Phase

    Quiet plants a few weeks in are a gap, not a win. Hold until two clean weeks in a row

  • Spray residue on the leaves

    Check the wait time for whatever you sprayed before you release

  • A room that stays too cold or dry for days

    A cold night or a dry day won't do it. If the room stays below the mid-60s, cucumeris is the better pick; if it stays dry, mist or group plants

  • Swirskii or limonicus left in piles

    Spread them thinly, and keep the carrier off the soil where rove beetles hunt

4Afterwards

How do I keep thrips from coming back?

Once new growth is clean, hang prevention sachets so the next wave never takes hold.

Once new growth has come in clean for two weeks, switch from treatment to prevention. A slow-release prevention sachet hangs on the plant and walks predatory mites out for 4–6 weeks, which suits a pest that arrives in waves. Prevention sachets keep thrips from getting a foothold. They don't clear an infestation that's already there.

Want them on a schedule? Any prevention sachet can be set up as a subscription on its page. See the prevention sachets.

Often shows up with thrips

Thrips questions

More about biological control in the Biocontrol FAQ, or ask us.

How long does it take to get rid of thrips with predators?
It depends on how heavy the infestation is, the temperature and humidity, and whether you cover the leaves, the adults and the soil together.

Thrips keep coming up from the soil in waves, so expect more than one round. Keep going until you have seen two weeks in a row with no new damage.

Do I need to treat the soil if the thrips are on the leaves?
Yes, for a reliable result. Thrips larvae drop into the soil to pupate, and no predator on the leaves can follow them there. Sf nematodes, Stratiolaelaps or Dalotia take the pupae before they come back up as egg-laying adults.

What kills adult thrips?
Orius insidiosus, the minute pirate bug. Predatory mites eat thrips larvae, not adults. Orius needs 12 or more hours of light a day to keep hunting, so in winter it usually needs grow lights.

Swirskii or cucumeris: which should I buy for thrips?
Swirskii for an active infestation. It eats first- and second-stage larvae and works across a wider range of conditions. Cucumeris eats first-stage larvae only, costs less, and suits prevention or very mild cases in cooler, humid rooms.

Can I use Orius and predatory mites together?
Yes, and Thrips Total Control does. Orius goes after the adult thrips and predatory mites go after the larvae, so they cover different stages. Spread the mites thinly across the foliage instead of leaving the carrier in piles.

Can I spray neem oil or insecticidal soap while using predators?
Not at the same time, because contact sprays kill predators too. Neem oil and horticultural oil are safe to follow once the leaves are dry, and insecticidal soap needs one day.

Residual products need much longer, from 14 days for spinosad to 15 weeks for bifenthrin. If the label says longer, follow the label.

How do I know the predators are working?
Watch the new growth. New damage should slow and then stop, and new leaves should come in clean. Damaged leaves do not recover, and the first week often looks unchanged.

My thrips came back after treatment seemed to work. Why?
Usually the releases stopped before the soil was cleared. Adults can disappear for a few days around weeks 2 to 3 while the next wave pupates, then return.

Spray residue, or heat or very dry air that lasts for days, can also slow predators down without you noticing.

Does soil treatment work in coco, leca or rockwool?
Yes. Thrips pupate in any growing medium they can get into. Sf nematodes are watered in and work in leca and hydro. Stratiolaelaps does well in soil and coco, and needs the surface kept slightly moist.

Are predatory mites and Orius safe around pets and people?
Yes. Predatory mites feed only on small insects and mites, cannot bite people, pets or birds, and do not infest homes. Orius is harmless too. Very rarely, one may give a pinprick-sized nip if it lands on your skin.

What growers say about our thrips predators

4.6 124 reviews across 8 products Read reviews

Every live order is covered by our Live Delivery Guarantee.

Field Notes

Thrips, at longer length

Reviewed by Karen Horn, FGMN Nursery, growing since 2005 · Updated October 9, 2026