The Biocontrol Guide
Everything you need to know about using living predators against plant pests. How they work, how to deploy them, what to expect — and all the questions you were too embarrassed to ask.
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Quick Guide
Biocontrol uses living predators to eliminate plant pests without chemicals — predatory mites, beneficial insects, and nematodes that hunt, reproduce, and self-regulate. Success requires matching the right predator to your pest (Phytoseiulus persimilis for spider mites, Amblyseius swirskii for thrips, Steinernema feltiae nematodes for fungus gnats), ensuring any pesticide residue has cleared before deployment, and giving the system 2–3 weeks to work. Results show on new growth, not old leaves.
"There are no hard and fast rules. Choose based on what works for you, not what someone on Reddit told you is 'the right way.'"
The reality of biocontrol
Frequently Asked Questions
Everything You Need to Know
Every question a stressed plant parent has — before they order, when the package arrives, and during the first two weeks.
Biocontrol works by introducing natural predators into the same environment as your pests. The predators hunt, eat, and reproduce. As they eat more pests, more predators are born. As the pest population crashes, predators run out of food and their population drops too. For collectors aiming at total eradication, this is exactly what you want — predators hunt pests to zero, then starve out. For growers running ongoing prevention, the same biology creates a stable equilibrium. Either way, the mechanism is the same.
The predator-prey relationship is the mechanism. Predatory mites don't just kill pests — they track them, follow their chemical trails, and actively seek them out. A single predatory mite eats 5–20 pest mites per day and lays 2–4 eggs per day in good conditions. When the prey is gone, they can't sustain their population. They don't move on to eat your other plants, your carpet, or you. Without prey, they starve out.
Why this is fundamentally different from spraying: A pesticide kills what it touches on the day you apply it. Eggs hatch the next day. You spray again. The treadmill continues indefinitely because the spray doesn't change the underlying dynamic — pests will always recolonise a vacant habitat. Biocontrol changes the habitat itself. You're establishing a permanent resident population of hunters that responds dynamically to pest pressure.
What "working" looks like: Not the dramatic immediate knockdown you see with sprays. In week one, you'll likely still see pests — the predators are establishing, reproducing, spreading through your plants. By week two you'll see the predator population growing and pest movement slowing. By weeks three to four, new growth should be coming in clean. Old damage won't disappear (plants don't heal leaf tissue), but it stops spreading.
The three types and what they do:
- Predatory mites — 0.3–1mm arachnids that hunt on plant surfaces. Eggs, nymphs, adults all prey on pest mites, thrips larvae, and whitefly eggs. Species-specific: Persimilis for spider mites, Swirskii for thrips and whitefly, Amblyseius cucumeris for thrips at lower temps.
- Beneficial insects — Larger, visible hunters. Aphidius wasps parasitise aphids from the inside (you'll see mummified brown aphids as evidence). Orius bugs actively hunt thrips. Ladybugs are generalist predators. Most have wings and will move between plants.
- Nematodes — Microscopic roundworms applied as a soil drench. They seek out pest larvae in the soil — fungus gnat larvae, thrips pupae, root aphids — and kill them before they emerge as adults. Invisible, but the reduction in flying adults is the evidence they're working.
Two Valid Goals
Collectors protecting prize specimens often want total eradication — and that's completely achievable. You deploy a high dose, predators hunt pests to zero, then starve out themselves. Job done. Production growers and large collections often aim for ongoing equilibrium instead — sachets running year-round, pests never reaching damaging levels. Special Blend sachets are the go-to for this. Both are legitimate strategies. This page covers both.
Pesticide residue is the number one reason biocontrol fails. It kills predatory mites on contact — and it sticks around for days after the spray dries. This includes "organic" options like neem oil and insecticidal soap.
If you've sprayed anything in the last few weeks, scroll down to the wait-times reference below before you order. The short version: neem and soap need just a day if you rinse first — spinosad and systemics need much longer.
If You Already Ordered
Nematodes can be refrigerated for up to 30 days. Predatory mites store at 50–60°F for 24 hours max. If you need to wait longer, contact us — we can help you time your shipment.
The short version: deploy the same day your package arrives, in the early morning or evening. Exact steps depend on product type — full numbered instructions for every format are in the How to Deploy tabs further down this page.
Arriving today and need it fast:
- Bottled mites — roll bottle gently, take a pea-sized pinch, place on or near infested plant. Done.
- Sachets — hang on a mid-canopy branch. Don't touch soil. One per 2–4 medium plants.
- Nematodes — mix full pack into 1–2 gal dechlorinated water, drench every pot till it runs out the bottom.
- Beneficial insects — open container gently near infested plants, tap to release. Indoors/greenhouses only for wasps.
Don't Wait on Mites
Predatory mites and beneficial insects store for 24 hours maximum at 50–60°F. Nematodes refrigerate for up to 30 days. If you can't deploy today, contact us — we'll help you time your shipment.
First-time biocontrol deliveries catch people off guard. Here's what to expect before you assume something's wrong.
If Something Seems Wrong
Email us with a photo before disposing of anything. We have a live arrival guarantee and can replace or reship if there's a genuine problem. But 90% of the time, the product is fine — it just looks different from what people expect.
Dosing is flexible but these ranges work for most collections. When in doubt, go heavier on the first application — it's better to over-deploy than to under-deploy and watch pests rebound.
| Collection size | Bottled mites | Sachets | Nematodes |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1–5 plants | 1 bottle (250–500 count) Use ~50–100 mites per plant |
1–2 sachets 1 sachet per 2–3 plants |
1 pack (5M) Drench all pots |
| 6–15 plants | 1–2 bottles More if heavily infested |
3–6 sachets 1 per ~2–4 medium plants |
1–2 packs (5M each) Drench every pot |
| 16–40 plants | 2–3 bottles Or 1 bottle + sachets for follow-up |
8–15 sachets Distribute evenly across collection |
2–4 packs (5M each) Treat every pot, not just infested |
| 40+ plants / greenhouse | 3+ bottles or bulk Contact us — bulk pricing available |
1 sachet per 5–10 sq ft canopy Spaced evenly through collection |
Bulk packs available Contact us for large-scale dosing |
Heavy Infestation = Double Dose
If you can see webbing, significant stippling, or pest clusters with the naked eye, you have a heavy infestation. Use double the normal dose on first application. A second round 7–10 days later is common in severe cases and is not a sign of failure — it's the strategy working.
The most important thing after deploying biocontrol is also the hardest: leave it alone and let the biology work.
Don't spray anything. No neem, no soap, no "just a quick alcohol wipe." Even well-intentioned spot treatments will kill predators and reset your progress. If you see pests on a leaf after deploying, that's expected — the predators are still establishing. Intervening now is like weeding a garden you just planted.
For bottled mites: Don't water or mist plants for 2–4 hours after deployment — you'll wash mites off leaves before they've had a chance to move. After that, water normally. Keep humidity above 40% if possible; predatory mites are more active in humid conditions.
For sachets: Leave them alone. They don't need adjusting. Check every 4–6 weeks and replace when the sachet feels empty or dry. Write the date on them with a Sharpie when you hang them — you'll forget otherwise.
For nematodes: Keep soil consistently moist for 7–10 days. Water lightly every 2–3 days. Nematodes need moisture to move through soil — if it dries out completely, they die before reaching the larvae. Don't flood; just don't let it go bone dry.
Monitor, don't intervene. Check plants weekly. What you're watching for: pest activity slowing, new growth coming in clean, fast-moving predators on patrol (if you can see them — most people can't). Pest damage on existing leaves won't disappear; plants don't heal leaf tissue. New growth is your scorecard.
The Two-Week Rule
Don't make any decisions about whether it's working until at least two weeks have passed. Biocontrol works on a biological clock. If you're seeing any reduction in pest activity, or any new growth coming in clean, you're winning — even if the existing damage still looks bad.
It depends on what you're running and what your goal is. Biocontrol isn't always a one-and-done purchase — but it doesn't have to be a subscription either.
Bottled mites (active infestation): Most infestations resolve in one application. If pests are still spreading after 2–3 weeks, or you had a severe outbreak, a second bottle 7–10 days after the first is usually enough. After that, you may not need to reorder unless pests return.
Sachets (ongoing prevention): Replace every 4–6 weeks. Each sachet has a finite food supply — once it's exhausted, mite emergence stops. If you're running a preventative program, mark your calendar and treat sachets like a subscription. For most collections, 2–3 rounds per growing season keeps pest pressure at zero.
Nematodes (fungus gnats): If gnats return after the first application, reapply every 2–4 weeks until adults stop emerging. For ongoing prevention, once a month during the growing season keeps soil populations suppressed.
Signs you need to reorder immediately:
- Pest damage is actively spreading to new growth after 3 weeks
- You never saw any predator activity — possible that deployment failed (check the troubleshooting section)
- Pests spiked after a gap in your sachet schedule
- You introduced new plants from an unknown source — treat the whole collection
Signs you don't need to reorder yet:
- New growth is coming in clean
- Pest populations are stable or declining, even if not zero
- Your sachets are less than 4–6 weeks old
- You can see predators on patrol (lucky you)
The Collector's Rule
If you're running eradication rather than equilibrium, your goal is for predators to eventually starve out — which means pests are at zero and you don't need to reorder. Watch for a few weeks of zero new damage on new growth, then hold off. If pests return, one fresh bottle usually handles it.
Before You Deploy
If you've sprayed recently,
you need to wait.
Pesticide residue doesn't just disappear when it dries. It stays on leaves and kills predatory mites on contact — including organic options. These are the minimum wait times before deploying any biocontrol.
What to do: Rinse plant surfaces with plain water to clear residue, then wait the full duration. If your order has already shipped, nematodes refrigerate for up to 30 days. Predatory mites are 50–60°F for 24 hours max — contact us and we can help you time your shipment.
What to Expect
Predators Establish & Start Hunting
Mites crawl off carrier material and begin patrolling. You may see fast-moving predators. Pest damage continues but predator population is building.
Visible Progress
Dead pests appear. Damage slows on existing leaves. Predator populations increase as they reproduce on your plants.
New Growth Looks Clean
New leaves emerge without damage. Pest populations crash. Predators maintain control. Old damage remains (plants don't heal) but spread has stopped.
Ready to go deeper?
Keep reading for strategies, species details, and how to customize your approach.
Keep Reading ↓Want the Full Story?
Here's everything: strategies, species breakdowns, timing, and how to make smart decisions for your setup. For species-specific deep dives, see the Mite Matters blog.
The old way
Spray. Wait. Repeat forever.
You kill what's on the plant today. Eggs hatch tomorrow. You spray again next week. The bottle never empties. The problem never ends.
Biocontrol
Deploy once. They handle it.
Predators hunt 24/7, reproduce on your plants, and establish colonies that suppress pests indefinitely. No spray schedule. No residue. No wondering if you got every leaf.
What to Expect
Unlike spraying a pesticide, biocontrol has some flexibility. Your temperature, humidity, pest species, and goals all influence the approach. But don't let that scare you: the recommended ranges work for most people, most of the time.
Think of it like cooking. A recipe gives you temperatures and times, but your oven might run hot or cold. You adjust. Same here — we give you proven starting points. Most people see results with a single application.
The boundaries are real — you can't run Persimilis at 50°F and expect it to work. But within reasonable indoor conditions, you have options that will succeed.
Nuke them (total elimination): High-dose bottled mites — Persimilis for spider mites, Swirskii for thrips — one release, maybe two if pressure is high. Once pests crash, follow up with sachets to keep pest count at absolute zero. Works for collectors protecting prize specimens AND gardeners who hate seeing any pests.
Equilibrium (ongoing suppression): Smaller doses throughout the season to maintain balance. Pests never disappear completely, but they never explode either. Works for production growers AND collectors who want low-maintenance control.
Most people start seeing improvement within 1–2 weeks. Typical timeline: Week 1 = predators establish and start hunting. Week 2 = you see dead pests, damage slows. Week 3–4 = new growth looks clean.
The short answer: Once you switch to biocontrol, you don't need them anymore. Predatory mites, beneficial insects, and nematodes are a complete IPM (Integrated Pest Management) system. You're not supplementing — you're replacing.
Why sprays don't mix with biocontrol:
Neem oil, insecticidal soap, alcohol sprays, and homemade treatments all kill on contact — pests and predators alike. The key question is how long residue persists after drying. Alcohol clears in hours. Neem and soap clear in about a day if you rinse the leaves first. Spinosad and systemics are far more persistent — 7–10 days and 3–4 weeks respectively.
The transition:
Sprays give immediate knockdown. You see dead pests within hours. But it's temporary — you kill what's on the plant today, but eggs hatch tomorrow and you're spraying again next week. It's a treadmill.
Biocontrol works differently. Predators hunt 24/7, reproduce on your plants, and establish multi-generational colonies that suppress pests indefinitely. You deploy once (or use sachets for prevention), and the predators handle it. No weekly spray schedule. No bottles under the sink. No wondering if you got every leaf.
The transition:
If you've been spraying and want to switch to biocontrol, here's the plan: Stop spraying. Wait the recommended time (see question #2 in Quick Start). Deploy predators. Let them work. Don't "help" by spraying again — you'll kill your predators and reset the clock.
If You're Hesitant
We get it — spraying feels like taking action. Deploying invisible predators feels passive. But biocontrol is the action. You're introducing a permanent workforce that hunts, eats, and breeds on your plants. Once they're established, the pest problem is managed without you touching a spray bottle ever again.
You may not need to. Most people deploy once and the predators handle it. But here's how to tell if your predators need reinforcement:
Signs you need to reapply:
- Pest damage is still spreading to new growth after 2–3 weeks
- You see pest populations increasing instead of decreasing
- You never saw predators establish (no fast-moving mites, no aphid mummies)
- Heavy initial infestation — sometimes one round isn't enough to outpace reproduction
Signs your predators are working (no reapplication needed):
- New growth looks clean even if older leaves still show damage
- You see fast-moving, shiny predatory mites on patrol
- Pest populations are stable or declining
- Aphid mummies appearing (for Aphidius deployments)
- Damage has stopped spreading
Reapplication schedule:
Bottled mites: If needed, reapply 7–10 days after first deployment. Most active infestations resolve in 1–2 applications.
Sachets: Replace every 4–6 weeks as part of ongoing prevention. This isn't "reapplying" — it's maintenance.
Nematodes: Reapply every 2–4 weeks if fungus gnats persist. For prevention, apply monthly during growing season.
Beneficial insects: Aphidius establishes colonies and doesn't need reapplication. Ladybugs and Orius may disperse — if pests return, redeploy.
When in Doubt, Wait
Give predators the full 2–3 weeks before deciding to reapply. They work slower than sprays, but the results last. If you're seeing ANY reduction in pest activity or ANY predators on patrol, they're working — just let them finish the job.
If you deployed predators and pests are still thriving after 2–3 weeks, something interfered. Work through this list before concluding biocontrol doesn't work for you.
- Did you spray anything in the weeks before deploying?
- Even "organic" sprays (neem, soap, spinosad) kill predators
- Residue can persist 5–21 days depending on product
- Fix: Wait the full period, rinse leaves, redeploy
- Persimilis only hunts spider mites — won't help with thrips
- Nematodes target soil pests only — won't touch foliar pests
- Aphidius is aphid-specific — won't help with mites
- Fix: Recheck pest ID, redeploy correct species
- Persimilis won't hunt effectively below 60°F or above 90°F
- Most predatory mites slow significantly below 55°F
- Nematodes die if soil gets too hot or dry
- Fix: Check your environment, switch to a species suited to your temp range
- Pests recolonize from untreated plants quickly
- Fungus gnat larvae are in every pot — treat all of them
- Thrips pupate in soil — nematodes need to go everywhere
- Fix: Treat the entire collection, not just visibly affected plants
- A single bottle can be overwhelmed by a severe outbreak
- Pest reproduction rate can outpace predators at first
- Predators need 1–2 weeks to establish before they can keep up
- Fix: Second application 7–10 days after first, higher dose
- Biocontrol works on a biological clock — results take 1–3 weeks
- Old damage on leaves won't disappear (plants don't heal)
- New growth should look clean — that's your success indicator
- Fix: Wait the full 3 weeks before deciding to intervene
Still Stuck?
Email us at info@fgmnnursery.com. We'd rather help you troubleshoot than have you give up on a method that works. Photos of the affected plants + what you bought + when you deployed = usually enough to diagnose.
Pesticides, Sprays & Homebrews
Not all sprays are equally harmful — what matters is whether there's active residue on your plants when predators arrive. Here are the ones people actually use.
The rule
Contact-kill products (alcohol, soap) are safe once dry — hours, not days. Residual products linger on leaves. Systemics can't be rinsed off at all. "Organic" on the label tells you about human safety — it says nothing about compatibility with beneficial arthropods. Spinosad is proof of that.
How to Deploy
At a Glance:
Best for: Active infestations, rapid response
Amount: Pea-sized pinch per plant
Where: On plant, in pot, or bottle cap nearby
When: Early morning or evening
Storage: 50–60°F, max 24 hours
When to use: Active infestations, rapid response, nuke strategy
Arrival: Deploy immediately for best results. If you must wait, store at 50–60°F for max 24 hours. Don't leave on hot porch or in cold garage.
How to deploy:
- Gently roll bottle to distribute the carrier material (looks like bran, sawdust, or vermiculite)
- Open bottle — you'll see tiny moving specks (the predatory mites)
- Take a small pinch of material (about the size of a pea or use a gram scoop if included)
- Place it on the plant where you see pest damage, OR place it in the pot near the base of the plant, OR put it in a small container like a bottle cap next to the plant
- The mites will crawl off the material and start hunting within minutes
- Repeat on each infested plant
- Do this in early morning or evening (avoid midday sun)
- Don't water or mist plants for 2–4 hours after application
Dosing: 50–100 mites for small plants (4–8" pots), 100–200 for medium (10–14"), 200–400 for large (16"+). One bottle typically contains enough for 5–15 plants depending on size. One application usually works; heavy infestations might need a second round in 7–10 days.
What to Look For
Most people never actually see their predatory mites — around 80% of customers report not being able to spot them even after a successful deployment. At 0.3–1mm, they're at the limit of naked-eye visibility, and they move fast. Predatory mites move like they're late for a meeting (fast, erratic, shiny). Pest mites move like they're window shopping (slow, steady, dull). A phone camera's macro mode can help, but even then you may see nothing. That's normal. If new growth is coming in clean and damage has stopped spreading, the predators are working — you just can't see them doing it.
At a Glance:
Best for: Prevention, ongoing maintenance
Coverage: 1 sachet per 5–10 sq ft (2–4 medium plants)
Where: Hook on branch mid-canopy
Replace: Every 4–6 weeks
Pro tip: Write date on sachet with marker
When to use: Prevention, post-knockdown maintenance, equilibrium strategy
How to deploy:
- Remove sachet from packaging
- Find a sturdy branch somewhere in the middle height of the plant (not at the very top, not touching soil)
- Hook or staple the sachet so it hangs freely on the branch
- Distribute sachets evenly across your collection — one sachet covers about 5–10 sq ft of plant canopy (roughly 2–4 medium plants)
- Don't place sachets in direct sunlight
Maintenance: Write the deployment date on each sachet with a Sharpie. Replace every 4–6 weeks. Remove and dispose of old sachets after 6 weeks.
Strategy: Use sachets after nuking an infestation to keep pests at zero, or deploy sachets alone from the start for ongoing low-level suppression without ever fighting a major outbreak.
When to use: Aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, thrips (flying stage)
Arrival: Deploy immediately for best results. Store at 50–60°F for max 24 hours if needed. Don't refrigerate below 50°F.
Aphidius wasps (for aphids):
- Open container gently near infested plants in early morning or evening
- Tap container to release 1–5 wasps per aphid-infested plant
- Wasps are tiny (2mm), harmless to humans (they don't sting), and will immediately start searching for aphids
- Within 7–10 days, you'll see tan "aphid mummies" (parasitized aphids) on leaves and stems
- Works best indoors or in screened greenhouses where wasps won't disperse
Ladybugs (for aphids, mealybugs, scale):
- Best for outdoor gardens or screened greenhouses — they have wings and will fly away
- Release at dusk or early evening when they're less likely to immediately fly off
- Lightly mist plants before release (they'll stop to drink)
- Release directly onto infested plants or near the base
- Don't expect 100% retention — ladybugs are migrators and will leave if food is scarce
Orius / Minute Pirate Bugs (for thrips):
- Release onto flowering plants with thrips in early morning or evening
- 2–5 bugs per infested plant
- Orius are mobile hunters — they'll patrol plants actively
- Works best in greenhouses or on flowering plants (they supplement diet with pollen)
Retention Reality
Aphidius wasps establish well indoors. Ladybugs and Orius have wings and will disperse — expect some to leave. Focus releases on heavily infested areas and accept that some insects will explore beyond your immediate plants.
At a Glance:
Best for: Fungus gnats, thrips pupae, root aphids
Mix with: 1–2 gal dechlorinated water
Application: Drench soil until it runs out bottom
After care: Keep soil moist 7–10 days
Storage: Refrigerate 40–50°F up to 30 days
When to use: Fungus gnats, thrips (soil stage), root aphids
Arrival: Deploy immediately for best results. Nematodes can be refrigerated at 40–50°F for up to 30 days if needed — they're the most stable biocontrol product for storage.
How to deploy (soil/potting mix):
- Fill a watering can or bucket with 1–2 gallons of room-temperature water (dechlorinated or RO preferred — if using tap water, let it sit out for 24 hours first)
- Empty the entire nematode package into the water
- Stir gently with a stick or spoon until dissolved — solution will look milky/cloudy
- Immediately drench the soil of each pot thoroughly until water runs out the drainage holes
- Make sure the solution penetrates the top 2–4 inches of soil where pest larvae live
- Apply to EVERY pot in your collection, not just visibly infested ones (you can't see the larvae)
- Do this in early morning or after sunset — UV light kills nematodes on contact
How to deploy (hydroponics/semi-hydro):
- Mix nematodes with dechlorinated water as above
- Pour solution directly into reservoir or add to top of LECA/pon and let it drain through
- For recirculating systems: Turn off pumps for 4–6 hours after application to let nematodes settle and hunt
- Nematodes will survive in hydroponic systems but won't reproduce as effectively as in soil
- Reapply every 2–3 weeks for ongoing control in hydro setups
Dosing:
Prevention (no visible pests): Use 1/2 the treatment dose. One 5-million nematode pack treats 20–40 small pots, 10–20 medium pots, or 6–10 large pots.
Treatment (active infestation): One 5-million nematode pack treats 10–20 small pots (4–6"), 5–10 medium pots (8–12"), or 3–5 large pots (14"+).
Post-application care: Keep soil consistently moist (not waterlogged) for 7–10 days. Water lightly every 2–3 days. Nematodes need moisture to move through soil. If soil dries out, they die and can't reach the larvae.
Results: Fungus gnat adults should drop significantly within 10–14 days. You won't see the nematodes (they're microscopic) but you'll see fewer flying gnats.
When to use: Prevention, plant health optimization, population monitoring
Root Biome Builder (Beneficial Bacteria)
What it does: Establishes beneficial bacteria colonies in soil that outcompete pathogens, improve nutrient uptake, and support overall root health.
How to use: Mix with water according to package directions and drench soil. Can be applied alongside nematodes — they work together. Use at potting/repotting or as a monthly soil drench for established plants.
Best for: Root health, disease prevention, plants recovering from root rot or stress.
Trichoderma Harzianum (Strain T-22)
What it does: Beneficial fungus that colonizes roots and actively fights root rot pathogens (Pythium, Rhizoctonia, Fusarium). Creates a protective barrier around roots.
How to use: Mix with water and drench soil, or dust dry powder directly onto roots at repotting. Works preventatively — apply before you have a problem, not after root rot is established.
Best for: Prevention in high-risk environments (humid, dense collections), plants prone to root issues, new cuttings and seedlings.
Breeder's Blend (Predatory Mite Food)
What it does: Provides supplemental food (non-pest mites) to keep predatory mite populations breeding in sachets even when pest populations are low.
How to use: Sprinkle a small pinch onto leaves near sachets every 2–3 weeks. This extends sachet productivity and keeps predators actively reproducing between pest outbreaks.
Best for: Preventative sachet programs, low-pest environments where you want predators established before pests arrive.
Pro Tip
Use Breeder's Blend if you're running sachets preventatively and haven't seen pests in weeks. It keeps your predator colony fed and breeding so they're ready when pests eventually show up.
Horiver Sticky Traps
What they do: Yellow sticky cards that attract and trap flying pests (fungus gnats, whiteflies, thrips adults, winged aphids). Used for monitoring pest populations and early detection.
How to use: Place traps at soil level (for fungus gnats) or mid-canopy height (for thrips/whiteflies). Check weekly. If you see more than 5–10 insects per trap, it's time to deploy biocontrol.
Best for: Early warning system, tracking whether biocontrol is working (trap counts should drop after predator deployment), greenhouse and grow room monitoring.
Monitoring Strategy
Use sticky traps as your early warning system. Place them throughout your collection before you see pests. When trap counts spike, you know exactly when to deploy predators — before the infestation gets out of control.
Ready to deploy?
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