Plant Pest & Damage Identification

Start with the leaf, not the bug.

Tap the picture closest to your plant. We'll show you how to be sure, and what it's easy to mix up with.

The underside of a leaf, up close, in soft lightThree green aphids on the underside of a leaf.
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Spider mites

Stippling · Bronzing · Fine webbing · Moving specks on leaf underside

They multiply faster than you can say stippling.

Treat spider mites

Spider mite stippling: fine pale speckling across a leaf

The dust that won't wipe off.

Spider mites drain leaf cells one by one, leaving pale freckles on top while they live underneath.

Read more

The leaf surface looks dull, dusty, or lightly freckled, almost like someone scattered fine pepper across it. This is stippling: spider mites pierce individual plant cells and drain their contents, leaving tiny empty pockets that scatter light differently than healthy tissue. At this early stage there's no webbing yet, and the mites are hard to pick out on the leaf, though on white paper they show as moving dots. The damage is most visible on the upper leaf surface, but the mites live and feed on the underside.

A two-spotted spider mite up close on a leaf

From freckles to webbing.

Spider Mites, early stage
Early stagePale freckles across the top of the leaf, and nothing else yet.
Spider Mites, mid stage
Mid stageThe freckles merge into a dull bronze or silver cast.
MoreFine, silky webbing shows up at stem joints and under leaves.
Spider Mites, advanced
AdvancedWebbing drapes across leaves and stems, and leaves go bronze, then papery and crisp.
MoreThere are hundreds of mites now; this stage still responds to treatment.

Paper, a fingertip and a good look.

  1. Tap a stem over white paper.
    Tap a stem over white paper.Spider mites fall and show as tiny moving dots: 4 or 5 early on, dozens later.
    MoreIf nothing moves, it isn't spider mites.
  2. Flip the leaf and look near the center vein.
    Flip the leaf and look near the center vein.They gather on the underside by the midrib as tiny amber, pale yellow or red specks that wander slowly.
  3. Run a finger under the leaf joints.
    Run a finger under the leaf joints.Their webbing is finer than a cobweb: a faint drag early, plain to see by mid stage.
    MoreNo webbing early doesn't rule them out.
  4. Check whether the speckling is even or streaky.
    Check whether the speckling is even or streaky.Spider mites dull the leaf evenly.
    MoreStreaks point to thrips (below).

Small, quick and well traveled.

3–5 daysto double their numbers above 80°F (27°C) in low humidity.
  • They ride air currents, clothes and other plants from one pot to the next.
  • At about half a millimeter, you'll see the damage before the mite.

Not webbing? Maybe one of these.

Thrips damage: silver streaks across a leaf
Thrips

Thrips leave silver streaks along the leaf, not even stippling, with black specks of frass beside them.

MoreSpider mites can leave dark specks too, but with stippling and webbing, never silver streaks.

See thrips
Russet mite damage: bronzed leaves and stems
Russet mites

Russet mites cause bronzing that moves upward from the base of the plant.

MoreSpider mite damage appears wherever feeding occurs, not in a directional wave. Russet mites also never produce webbing.

See russet mites

Treat spider mites Not it? Back to all pests

Fine webbing strung between a leaf and its stem

Freckles, but nothing moving on the paper?

Send us the top and underside of one freckled leaf, and we'll tell you what's on it.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Thrips

Silver streaking · Black frass · Deformed new growth · Flower damage

They start on leaves before those leaves even open, which is rude.

Treat thrips

Thrips damage: silver streaks across a leaf

Silver, scraped from the surface.

Thrips scrape the leaf surface and drink what comes out, leaving silver streaks, often on newer leaves.

Read more

Thrips rasp the surface of plant cells and drink what comes out. The silvery-white streaks and patches you're seeing are collapsed, emptied cells, the leaf surface has been scraped away. Unlike spider mite stippling which dots the leaf evenly, thrips damage creates irregular streaks and patches, often concentrated on newer leaves.

An adult thrips up close: thin, dark and fast

From streaks to stalled growth.

Thrips, early stage
Early stageSilver-white streaks on top of the leaf, with tiny black specks nearby.
Thrips, mid stage
Mid stageThe scarring spreads to more leaves, and leaves start opening crinkled and lopsided.
MoreBlack specks are everywhere, and pale yellow larvae hide in the folds.
Thrips, advanced
AdvancedLeaves open stunted and twisted, and flowers come out streaked and ruined.
MoreThrips can carry a plant virus (tomato spotted wilt), so move this plant away from the others.

Specks, opening leaves and a sheet of paper.

  1. Look for black specks near the silver patches.
    Look for black specks near the silver patches.That's frass (droppings, politely).
    MoreBeside silver streaks, it's the tell: broad and russet mites never leave it, and spider mites' specks come with stippling and webbing instead.
  2. Check any leaf as it opens.
    Check any leaf as it opens.Thrips feed inside leaves before they unfurl, so a leaf can open already scarred or crinkled.
    MoreSpider mites damage leaves that are already open.
  3. Tap a stem over white paper.
    Tap a stem over white paper.Thrips drop as slender slivers that run fast: pale yellow larvae, dark brown to black adults.
    MoreSpider mites wander slowly.
  4. Check leaf folds, flowers and growing tips.
    Check leaf folds, flowers and growing tips.Pale yellow or white larvae tucked into the folds mean an active infestation.

Inside the leaf, then down in the soil.

Streaky, but maybe not thrips?

Spider mite stippling: fine pale speckling across a leaf
Spider mites

Spider mites cause even stippling across the leaf, not streaks.

MoreSpider mites produce webbing; thrips never do. The tap test will show spider mites as slow-moving dots, thrips move fast and run.

See spider mites
Broad mite damage: new leaves cupped and twisted
Broad mites

Broad mite damage also affects new growth, but causes downward cupping and distortion, not silvery streaking.

MoreBroad mites never produce the characteristic silver scarring pattern.

See broad mites

Treat thrips Not it? Back to all pests

A pale yellow thrips larva on a green leaf

Streaks you can't place?

Send us a photo of the streaks and a leaf that's just opened, and we'll tell you what's on it.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Broad mites

Downward-cupped new growth · Only new growth affected · Leathery texture · No visible mites

You'll never see one. Their handwriting is all over the new leaves.

Treat broad mites

Broad mite damage: new leaves cupped and twisted

New leaves arrive already damaged.

Broad mites feed only on new growth, so new leaves open cupped, leathery and lopsided while older ones look fine.

Read more

Broad mites are a fifth of a millimeter, too small to see. They feed exclusively on new, actively growing tissue, injecting a toxic saliva as they feed that disrupts cell development. The result is new leaves that emerge already damaged: cupped downward, leathery or brittle in texture, and asymmetrical in shape. The key diagnostic clue is that only new growth is affected; established leaves look completely healthy. This pattern is highly specific to broad mites and separates them from almost every other pest.

Broad mite damage: twisted, cupped new growth at the tip

From one cupped leaf to a stalled tip.

Broad Mites, early stage
Early stageNew leaves cup down and in at the edges while older leaves look perfectly normal.
MoreDamage only on new growth points to broad mites.
Broad Mites, mid stage
Mid stageEvery new leaf opens twisted, curled down, leathery and lopsided.
MoreThe plant looks like it forgot how to grow, while older leaves still look fine.
Broad Mites, advanced
AdvancedNew growth comes out as tight bronze claws, and the growing tip can look burnt.
MoreThe plant may stop making usable new growth until the mites are gone.

Read the new growth.

  1. Compare the newest leaves with the older ones.
    Compare the newest leaves with the older ones.If only the newest 2–3 leaves and the tip are damaged and older growth looks good, think broad mites.
  2. Check which way new leaves curl.
    Check which way new leaves curl.Broad mites curl new leaves down and inward.
    MoreRusset mites curl them up. Down, think broad mites.
  3. Watch the next leaf that opens.
    Watch the next leaf that opens.Too small to see, broad mites sit at the base of new growth.
    MoreEach new leaf that opens deformed is your evidence.
  4. Rule out watering and humidity.
    Rule out watering and humidity.Both can cup new growth, but the plant recovers when conditions change.
    MoreBroad mite damage keeps coming, leaf after leaf, whatever you adjust.

Broad mite facts.

Can you see it
No. A fifth of a millimeter, too small to see. The new growth tells you.
When it's worst
Warm and humid. Spread rapidly in greenhouse conditions.
How it spreads
Physical contact between plants, contaminated tools, thrips (broad mites hitch-hike on thrips adults)

Cupped, but maybe not broad mites.

Russet mite damage: bronzed leaves and stems
Russet mites

Russet mites cause damage that progresses upward from the base of the plant.

MoreBroad mites damage only new growth regardless of position. Russet mites cause upward leaf curl; broad mites cause downward curl.

See russet mites
Thrips damage: silver streaks across a leaf
Thrips

Thrips also damage new growth, but leave silver scarring and black frass.

MoreBroad mites cause distortion and curling with no surface scarring and no frass.

See thrips

Treat broad mites Not it? Back to all pests

Twisted, puckered new growth at a stem tip

New growth twisted and no idea why?

Send us the newest leaves next to an older one, and we'll tell you what's going on.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Russet mites

Upward bronzing from base · Upward leaf curl · Rough greyed stems · No webbing

The one pest that politely works its way up from the floor.

Treat russet mites

Russet mite damage: bronzed leaves and stems

Bronze, climbing from the bottom.

Russet mites bronze and roughen stems and leaves, always starting at the base and moving up.

Read more

Russet mites are smaller than spider mites, too small to see, and they feed on the surface of stems and leaves, causing the tissue to bronze, dry out, and roughen. The most distinctive feature of a russet mite infestation is its directional spread: always from the base of the plant upward. Your lower leaves and stems are worse than your upper growth. This wave-pattern bronzing is rarely caused by anything else and is one of the fastest ways to distinguish russet mites from other problems that look similar at a glance, including nutrient deficiencies and drought stress.

A young plant bronzed from the base upward

From a greasy stem to a bronzed plant.

Russet Mites, early stage
Early stageLower stems and leaf stalks look pale, greasy or faintly silvered.
MoreIt starts at the base and climbs, so check the bottom first.
Russet Mites, mid stage
Mid stageBronze creeps up from the lower leaves, edges curl up, and stems turn rough and grey.
MoreThat upward wave is the giveaway.
Russet Mites, advanced
AdvancedThe whole plant is bronze from the base up.
MoreLeaves dry out and drop, and stems crack and roughen.

Start at the bottom.

  1. Compare the bottom of the plant with the top.
    Compare the bottom of the plant with the top.Bronzing that climbs from the base upward is the russet mite signature.
    MoreAlmost no deficiency or stress makes that pattern.
  2. Check the leaf edges.
    Check the leaf edges.Russet mites curl edges up and inward, the opposite of broad mites.
    MoreUpward curl plus bronzing on lower leaves strongly suggests them.
  3. Run a finger along a lower stem.
    Run a finger along a lower stem.Damaged stems feel rough or greasy and look matte or grayish, often before the leaves show anything.

Russet mite facts.

Can you see it
No. Smaller than spider mites and wedge-shaped. The bronzing tells you.
When it's worst
Hot and dry, like spider mites. Numbers climb fast in summer and in dry indoor rooms.
How it spreads
Wind, contact between plants, contaminated tools

Bronze, but maybe not russet mites.

Broad mite damage: new leaves cupped and twisted
Broad mites

Broad mites affect only new growth, regardless of position on the plant.

MoreRusset mites damage in a directional upward wave. Broad mites curl leaves downward; russet mites curl upward.

See broad mites
Magnesium deficiency: yellowing between the veins of an older leaf
Magnesium deficiency

Magnesium deficiency yellows the leaf between green veins, starting on older leaves.

MoreRusset mites bronze the whole surface, veins and all, and roughen the stems; the deficiency doesn't roughen stems.

Treat russet mites Not it? Back to all pests

A lower stem with a dull, rough, greyish surface

Bronzing you can't explain?

Send us a lower stem and an upper leaf side by side, and we'll compare them for you.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Flat mites

Oily patches along veins · Corky vein damage · Reddish specks along veins

Thin enough to hide in a crease. The veins give them away.

Ask us what to use

Damage that follows the veins.

Flat mites press flat against the leaf and feed slowly, leaving oily patches that trace the veins.

Read more

Flat mites are extremely flattened, almost paper-thin, which allows them to press tight against leaf surfaces and hide in crevices that other mites can't reach. They feed slowly, and early damage is very easy to overlook: faint oily or water-soaked patches on the leaf underside that follow the vein structure rather than spreading uniformly across the leaf. This vein-following pattern is the key diagnostic feature. The damage doesn't look like insect feeding, it can easily be mistaken for a water splash, fungal infection, or early viral symptoms.

From oily patches to corky veins.

Flat Mites, early stage
Early stageFaint oily or water-soaked patches under the leaf, tracing the veins.
MoreTiny reddish-orange specks may sit pressed flat along them.
Flat Mites, mid stage
Mid stageYellowish or reddish-brown patches grow along the veins, and the tissue there turns a little corky.
MoreIt follows the veins rather than spreading evenly.
Flat Mites, advanced
AdvancedCorky, rusty patches spread across leaves and stems, and tissue along the veins dies.
MoreUnlike russet mites, they can reach bark and woody stems.

Follow the veins.

  1. See whether the damage follows the veins.
    See whether the damage follows the veins.Flat mite damage maps to the vein network.
    MoreDamage spread evenly across the leaf, regardless of veins, is unlikely to be flat mites.
  2. Run a fingernail along a vein.
    Run a fingernail along a vein.Damaged tissue feels corky, rough or raised against the smooth leaf around it, often before it shows.
  3. Check for webbing.
    Check for webbing.Flat mites never make any.
    MoreThey're reddish-orange, paper-flat and barely move, so the vein damage is the easier tell.
  4. Check old leaves as well as new ones.
    Check old leaves as well as new ones.Flat mites feed on both, and on woody stems and bark.
    MoreDamage on mature leaves rules out broad mites, which only hit new tissue.

Flat mite facts.

Can you see it
Barely. Reddish-orange, very flat, pressed against the surface. The vein damage is the easier tell.
How it spreads
Plant contact, contaminated tools, possibly wind at low rates
Damage
Corky russeting along veins. Can also cause viral-like symptoms, Brevipalpus mites transmit plant viruses.

Ask us what to use Not it? Back to all pests

The underside of a leaf with oily patches along the veins

Vein damage you can't place?

Send us the underside of one affected leaf, veins in focus, and we'll tell you what it is.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Aphids

Soft clustered insects · Shed white skins · Sticky honeydew · Sooty mold · Ant activity

No mating required, which explains a lot.

Treat aphids

Aphids clustered on a stem below a flower bud

Small, soft and quick to multiply.

Aphids cluster on soft new growth, drink sap and leave sticky honeydew, and a small cluster grows fast.

Read more

Aphids are one of the most visible pests, you can often see them with the naked eye as clusters of soft, pear-shaped insects on new growth and stem tips. Color varies by species: green, black, white, grey, or yellow. They feed by inserting a stylet into plant tissue and extracting sap, excreting the excess as sticky honeydew. What makes aphids dangerous is their reproductive speed, a single female can produce 80 offspring per week without mating. A small cluster you dismiss today can become a plant-covering colony within 10 days. The shed white papery skins they leave behind are often more visible than the insects themselves.

Green aphids clustered along a soft red stem

From one small cluster to a sticky plant.

Aphids, early stage
Early stageSoft, pear-shaped insects clustered on stem tips and under leaves, in green, black, white or yellow.
MoreLook for papery shed skins nearby.
Aphids, mid stage
Mid stageThe colony covers stems and leaf undersides, and sticky honeydew coats whatever is below.
MoreLeaves start to curl, and ants may be tending the herd.
Aphids, advanced
AdvancedBig colonies cover most of the plant, and sooty mold blackens the leaves.
MoreWinged aphids appear and can carry plant viruses to new plants.

Tips, skins, ants and a fingertip.

  1. Check stem tips and the undersides of young leaves.
    Check stem tips and the undersides of young leaves.Aphids cluster there.
    MoreSingle insects scattered across leaves are unusual and may be something else.
  2. Look for papery white skins near new growth.
    Look for papery white skins near new growth.Aphids shed them as they grow, and they're often easier to spot than green aphids on a green plant.
  3. Follow the ants.
    Follow the ants.Ants farm aphids for honeydew and will lead you straight to the colony.
  4. Press a finger on the cluster.
    Press a finger on the cluster.Aphids are soft and smear.
    MoreScale is a hard bump you have to scrape off.

Aphid facts.

How fast it multiplies
Extremely fast. All-female colonies, no mating required. Can double every 1–2 days in warm conditions.
Virus risk
Real. Aphids can carry over 100 plant viruses, and the winged ones take them to new plants.
Honeydew
Sticky coating on leaves and surfaces below, secondary sooty mold follows within days

Treat aphids Not it? Back to all pests

Green aphids along a curled young stem

Clusters you can't name?

Send us the cluster up close, and we'll tell you what it is.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Mealybugs

White cottony masses in stem joints · Honeydew · Sooty mold · Yellowing

They pick the coziest corner of the plant, every time.

Treat mealybugs

Mealybugs: white cottony clusters in a stem joint

Cotton that isn't cotton.

Mealybugs are soft insects wrapped in white wax, tucked into joints, and the wax shrugs off many sprays.

Read more

Mealybugs are soft-bodied insects covered in a white waxy powder and surrounded by white waxy filaments, the distinctive cottony or fluffy appearance. They hide in protected locations: leaf axils, stem joints, the base of petioles, and along the undersides of leaves. The wax coating protects them from many contact treatments and makes them one of the most persistent houseplant pests. What makes mealybugs particularly difficult is the crawler stage, newly hatched nymphs are nearly invisible, mobile, and spread the infestation to every part of the plant and to neighboring plants before you realize it's happening.

Mealybugs packed along a stem in white wax

From lint in a joint to a coated stem.

Mealybugs, early stage
Early stageWhite cottony fluff in leaf joints, like tiny bits of lint.
MoreCheck every crevice: one missed colony can start it all again.
Mealybugs, mid stage
Mid stageSeveral colonies line the stems and joints, with honeydew below and leaves starting to yellow.
MoreCrawlers you can barely see move on to the neighbors.
Mealybugs, advanced
AdvancedStems and joints are crusted white, and sooty mold covers the leaves.
MoreRoot mealybugs may be there too. Stubborn, so be thorough.

A flashlight and a cotton swab.

  1. Shine a flashlight into every joint.
    Shine a flashlight into every joint.Mealybugs pick the most protected spots: axils, stem joints, the base of each leaf stalk, leaf undersides.
    MoreFind one colony, look for three more.
  2. Dab one with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol.
    Dab one with a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol.A mealybug dissolves into a faint orange-pink smear.
    MorePowdery mildew doesn't. That's the definitive test.
  3. Look for faint white wax threads along stems.
    Look for faint white wax threads along stems.Crawlers leave them as they move out from a colony, so they show the infestation is spreading.
  4. Check the roots if treatment isn't working.
    Check the roots if treatment isn't working.Root mealybugs are a separate species: white woolly patches on the roots and the inside of the pot.

Mealybug facts.

Why it hangs on
Waxy coating resists contact pesticides. Eggs protected inside egg sacs. Crawlers spread before detection.
Keep it apart
Crawlers are nearly invisible and reach every plant in contact range within days.
Root mealybugs
A separate species requiring soil treatment. Suspect if foliage treatment fails repeatedly.

Treat mealybugs Not it? Back to all pests

One mealybug in its white wax coat on a leaf

White fluff you can't place?

Send us the white fluff up close, and we'll tell you if it's mealybugs.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Whitefly

White cloud when disturbed · Scale-like nymphs on leaf undersides · Honeydew · Sooty mold

The fliers are the alarm bell. The nymphs are the ones eating.

Treat whitefly

Whitefly nymphs: flat pale ovals on a leaf underside

The cloud is the clue. The nymphs do the damage.

Adults fly up in a white cloud; the flat, still nymphs under the leaves do the feeding.

Read more

Whiteflies are one of the easiest pests to identify, the adults are distinctive tiny white moth-like insects, 1 to 2 millimeters long, that erupt in a visible cloud when the plant is disturbed. But the adults are just the visible indicator. The actual damage is done by the nymph stage: flat, oval, pale green, scale-like insects attached to the underside of leaves, immobile, and easy to overlook. The nymphs drain plant sap and excrete honeydew, leading to sooty mold and yellowing. Adult whiteflies are also efficient virus vectors, containing an infestation quickly matters.

Tiny whitefly eggs in a ring on a leaf underside

From a few fliers to a coated leaf.

Whitefly, early stage
Early stageBrush a leaf and a little white cloud lifts off.
MoreThe feeders are flat, pale green, still nymphs under the leaves.
Whitefly, mid stage
Mid stageLeaf undersides are dense with nymphs, and honeydew coats the lower leaves.
MoreYellowing climbs from the bottom up, and adults fly in clouds when disturbed.
Whitefly, advanced
AdvancedLeaves are crusted with nymphs and pupal cases, sooty mold blackens the tops, and leaves drop.
MoreWhitefly can carry plant viruses, so keep this plant apart.

Brush, flip, feel.

  1. Brush your hand across the leaves.
    Brush your hand across the leaves.Whiteflies lift off in a white cloud.
    MoreNo other common houseplant pest does that, even early on.
  2. Flip a middle-aged leaf.
    Flip a middle-aged leaf.The feeding stage sits underneath: flat, oval, pale green or yellowish, under 2 millimeters, and still.
    MoreHeavy undersides look encrusted.
  3. Feel the lower leaves for stickiness.
    Feel the lower leaves for stickiness.Sticky means honeydew.
    MoreYellowing climbs from the bottom up, and sooty mold follows within days.

Whitefly facts.

Why it takes a few rounds
Pupal stage is resistant to most treatments. Multiple treatment cycles required to break the life cycle.
Virus risk
Real. Silverleaf whitefly is a major carrier of plant viruses.
How it spreads
Flight, adults move actively between plants. Can spread through a collection rapidly.

Treat whitefly Not it? Back to all pests

Tiny white flies lifting off a leaf

A white cloud, but not sure what?

Send us the underside of a middle-aged leaf, and we'll tell you what's living there.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Scale

Brown/tan bumps on stems · Honeydew (soft scale) · Sooty mold · Branch dieback

The pest most likely to be mistaken for the plant itself.

Treat scale

Scale: brown domed bumps along a stem

Bumps that pretend to be bark.

Scale insects look like part of the stem: small, still bumps drinking sap through needle-like mouthparts.

Read more

Scale insects are among the most deceptive pests, they look so much like part of the plant that they're easy to mistake for natural bark features, lenticels, or old leaf scars. They appear as small, flat to slightly domed bumps: brown, tan, white, or grey depending on the species. There are two main types: soft scale (slightly domed, waxy, produces honeydew) and armored scale (hard, flat shell, no honeydew). Both feed by inserting needle-like mouthparts into plant tissue and draining sap. The immobile adult feeding stage is what you're seeing, mobile crawlers disperse to new locations and are nearly invisible.

From a few bumps to a crusted stem.

Scale, early stage
Early stageSmall brown or tan bumps on stems and under leaves that never move.
MoreScrape one: a shell that lifts off a soft body is scale.
Scale, mid stage
Mid stageBumps of every size crowd the stems as new generations settle in.
MoreSoft scale drips honeydew, armored scale doesn't, and the plant yellows and slows.
Scale, advanced
AdvancedStems and midribs are crusted over, sooty mold follows soft scale's honeydew, and branches start to die back.
MoreArmored scale takes a few rounds of treatment.

Scrape, feel, watch.

  1. Scrape a bump with a fingernail.
    Scrape a bump with a fingernail.Scale pops off as a separate shell; bark or a lenticel won't.
    MoreUnderneath is a soft body (soft scale) or a dry, flat insect (armored scale).
  2. Feel the leaves below the bumps.
    Feel the leaves below the bumps.Sticky means soft scale, which drips honeydew, and sooty mold confirms it.
    MoreArmored scale makes none.
  3. Watch for tiny moving specks in late spring.
    Watch for tiny moving specks in late spring.Crawlers, yellow to pale orange and period-sized, leave colonies in spring and early summer.
    MoreThey mean it's breeding now.

Scale facts.

Soft or armored
Soft scale: domed, waxy, produces honeydew. Armored scale: harder, flatter, no honeydew. Different treatments apply.
Why sprays struggle
Hard shell protects adults from contact sprays. Need systemic or crawler-stage treatment.
How it spreads
Mobile crawlers, contaminated tools, incoming plants

Treat scale Not it? Back to all pests

A fingernail lifting a brown scale shell off a stem

Bumps you can't name?

Send us a close photo of the bumps, and we'll tell you if they're scale.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

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Fungus gnats

Tiny dark flies near soil · White larvae in soil with black heads · Risk highest in seedlings

The flies don't bite. They're just the messenger.

Treat fungus gnats

A fungus gnat on the soil surface of a pot

The flies are only the messenger.

The little flies are harmless; their larvae in damp soil are the problem, mostly for seedlings and cuttings.

Read more

Fungus gnats are small (about 2 millimeters), dark, weak-flying insects that hover around the soil surface and scatter when you approach. The adults are harmless and don't bite, they're just the visible symptom of what's happening underground. The larvae live in the top 2–3 inches of moist soil, feeding on fungal matter, organic debris, and plant roots. For established plants with mature root systems, this is rarely catastrophic, roots regrow faster than larvae can damage them. The real risk is seedlings, cuttings, and young plants with limited root mass, and the secondary infections that larval feeding wounds create.

A fungus gnat larva in moist soil among fine roots

From a few flies to stressed seedlings.

Fungus Gnats, early stage
Early stageTiny dark flies hover over the soil or lift off when you move the pot.
MoreThey're the sign; the larvae in the soil are the problem.
Fungus Gnats, mid stage
Mid stageMore flies around.
MoreGrown plants rarely show it above ground, since roots outgrow the damage, but seedlings and cuttings are at real risk.
Fungus Gnats, advanced
AdvancedYoung plants look stressed.
MoreThe bigger risk is infection: larval feeding wounds let Pythium and other root rots in.

Watch, slice, trap.

  1. Watch the soil for 30 seconds.
    Watch the soil for 30 seconds.Adults walk or hover just above the surface.
    MoreOne adult usually means hundreds of larvae below; adults are about 10% of the population.
  2. Set a raw potato slice on the soil for 24 hours.
    Set a raw potato slice on the soil for 24 hours.Larvae show on the cut face as translucent white worms, up to 5 millimeters long, with black heads.
    MoreThat confirms an active infestation.
  3. Lay a yellow sticky card flat on the soil.
    Lay a yellow sticky card flat on the soil.It catches adults within 24 hours and shows the scale: 5 is very different from 50.
    MoreIt doesn't touch the larvae, so check it daily and treat the soil.

Fungus gnat facts.

Risk to grown plants
Low. Roots regrow faster than damage occurs. Treat to avoid secondary infection and remove cosmetic nuisance.
Risk to seedlings and cuttings
Real. With little root mass, larval feeding can kill them, so treat early.
The bigger risk
Larval feeding wounds admit Pythium and other root pathogens, more damaging than the gnats themselves.

Wilting from below? Check this too.

Root rot: dark, mushy roots beside a few white healthy ones
Root rot

Both cause root damage and can present as unexplained wilting or decline.

MoreFungus gnat larvae create white threadlike damage channels; root rot turns roots black and mushy with a sour smell. Check both: they often occur together, since larval feeding opens the door to rot pathogens.

See root rot

Treat fungus gnats Not it? Back to all pests

Fungus gnats caught on a yellow sticky card

Flies near the soil, but not sure?

Send us the flies or the potato slice, and we'll tell you what they are.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

← All pestsPathogen

Root rot

Wilting despite moist soil · Mushy brown-black roots · Sour smell from soil · Lower leaf drop

A plant wilting in wet soil wants help, not more water.

Treat root rot

Root rot: dark, mushy roots beside a few white healthy ones

Wet soil, wilting plant.

Waterlogged soil lets rot into the roots, so the plant wilts even when the soil is wet.

Read more

Root rot isn't a pest, it's a fungal or oomycete infection of the root system, caused by consistently waterlogged soil that creates anaerobic conditions where pathogens thrive. The above-ground symptoms are indirect: the plant wilts, yellows, and declines not because of a pathogen attacking the leaves but because the root system can no longer transport water and nutrients upward. This is why wilting despite moist soil is the key diagnostic signal. A healthy plant with healthy roots should not wilt when the soil is wet. When it does, something has compromised the roots.

From a droopy plant to soft roots.

Root Rot, early stage
Early stageThe plant wilts even though the soil is moist, even right after watering.
MoreHealthy roots drink; rotting ones can't.
Root Rot, mid stage
Mid stageRoots turn dark brown to black and mushy, and the outer layer slides off when touched.
MoreThe soil smells sour, lower leaves yellow and drop, and it can still be saved.
Root Rot, advanced
AdvancedAlmost all the roots are gone, so the plant can't drink however wet the soil is, and the leaves collapse.
MoreSaving it means cutting away every rotten bit and repotting into dry mix.

Finger, nose, roots.

  1. Push a finger 2 inches into the soil.
    Push a finger 2 inches into the soil.Wilting in dry soil is thirst.
    MoreWilting in wet soil means the roots can't take up water.
  2. Smell the soil.
    Smell the soil.Healthy soil smells earthy.
    MoreA sour, musty or sulfur smell often comes before you can see root damage.
  3. Slide the plant out and look at the roots.
    Slide the plant out and look at the roots.Healthy roots are white to cream and firm.
    MoreRotted ones are brown to black and mushy, and the outer layer slides off to leave a thin wire-like core.
  4. Rule out fungus gnats and root mealybugs.
    Rule out fungus gnats and root mealybugs.Both can make a plant wilt in moist soil: black-headed larvae in the soil, or white woolly patches on roots.
    MoreTreatment differs.

Root rot facts.

What causes it
Overwatering + poor drainage. Waterlogged soil creates anaerobic conditions where Pythium and Phytophthora thrive.
Can it be saved
Sometimes. At mid stage with some healthy roots remaining, aggressive repotting into dry media and root treatment gives reasonable odds.
Prevention
Well-draining media, pots with drainage holes, watering only when soil is appropriately dry for the species.

Treat root rot Not it? Back to all pests

Roots lifted from a pot, some dark and soft

Wilting in wet soil and not sure why?

Send us the roots out of the pot, and we'll tell you what we see.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

← All pestsInsect

Leafminers

Serpentine pale trails in leaf · Internal tunnel below surface · Widens toward a blotch

The only pest that draws you a map.

Treat leafminers

Leafminer trails: pale winding tunnels inside a leaf

Tunnels inside the leaf.

Leafminer larvae live inside the leaf, eating the green layer and leaving pale trails that widen as they grow.

Read more

Leafminers are the larvae of small flies, moths, or beetles that hatch inside a leaf and spend their entire larval life tunnelling between the upper and lower epidermis, eating the green tissue (mesophyll) inside. The winding trails they leave, mines, are completely specific to leafminers. No other pest or condition creates a pale, winding tunnel through the interior of a leaf. The mine starts narrow where the larva hatched and widens as the larva grows, often ending in a broader blotch where it pupates. This widening tunnel is one of the clearest diagnostic patterns in plant pest identification.

From one trail to a blotched leaf.

Leafminers, early stage
Early stageA pale winding trail under the leaf surface: the tunnel of a larva eating between the leaf's two skins.
MoreHold the leaf to the light to see it.
Leafminers, mid stage
Mid stageSeveral squiggly white or tan trails across the leaves, each starting narrow and widening into a blotch as the larva grows.
Leafminers, advanced
AdvancedTrails crowd the leaves and merge into pale blotches.
MoreIt's mostly cosmetic and rarely kills a grown plant, but repeat rounds wear it down.

Look inside the leaf.

  1. Look for a pale winding trail inside the leaf.
    Look for a pale winding trail inside the leaf.You can't wipe or scratch it off.
    MoreNo other common pest tunnels through a leaf.
  2. Hold the leaf up to a flashlight or a bright window.
    Hold the leaf up to a flashlight or a bright window.The mine glows as a hollow channel.
    MoreA dark speck at its end is the larva; a widening blotch means it's about to pupate.
  3. Check the end of each mine for an exit hole.
    Check the end of each mine for an exit hole.No hole means larvae are still feeding.
    MoreA small half-moon hole means that generation has dropped to the soil, but adults may lay more eggs.

Leafminer facts.

How bad it gets
Primarily cosmetic. Rarely fatal to established plants but weakens them and opens pathways for infection with repeated infestation.
Life cycle
Egg laid in leaf tissue → larva mines for 1–3 weeks → pupates in soil → adult emerges and lays more eggs.
How it spreads
Adult flies moving between plants. Eggs laid on or in leaf tissue.

Treat leafminers Not it? Back to all pests

A leaf held up to a window, a pale trail showing

Trails you can't place?

Send us the leaf held up to the light, and we'll tell you what made the trail.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

← All pestsNot a pest

Mechanical damage

Fixed, not spreading · Clean or torn physical edges · New growth unaffected · No insects or frass

Plants have clumsy days too.

A close-up of one clean tear across a leaf edge, the tissue around it green and healthy

Same tear, same size, next week.

Physical damage happens once and stops: no insects, no pattern, and new growth comes in clean.

Read more

Physical damage to leaves, stems, or roots from handling, environmental impact, or animals. The key characteristic of mechanical damage is that it's static: it happened once and doesn't progress. There are no repeating patterns, no insects, no secondary symptoms like honeydew or sooty mold. New growth emerges undamaged. The wound browns and heals at the edges over time rather than spreading. Mechanical damage is easy to mistake for thrips if you're new to this, the torn, silvery-looking edges of physical damage can look superficially similar to thrips scarring. The absence of frass and the non-repeating pattern separates them immediately.

From a nick to a bent stem.

Mechanical Damage, minor
MinorA clean or torn edge that doesn't repeat across the leaf.
MoreYou can usually point to what did it.
A larger torn, crushed leaf area browning at the wound
ModerateBigger torn or crushed patches, browning at the wound.
MoreIt stays put; a bent stem may show a soft, collapsed section.
Mechanical Damage, severe
SevereA broken or badly kinked stem, and everything above it collapses.
MoreA quick splint with a stake and tape can let it heal if you catch it early.

Rule out a pest first.

  1. Watch the next new leaves.
    Watch the next new leaves.Pests keep feeding, so new leaves get hit as they come.
    MoreIf new leaves come in clean for 1–2 weeks, the cause is almost certainly physical.
  2. Look at the shape of the damage.
    Look at the shape of the damage.Pests make repeating patterns.
    MorePhysical damage has random edges that match what caused it: a tear, a crease, a puncture.
  3. Spend a minute on the undersides, joints and soil.
    Spend a minute on the undersides, joints and soil.No insects, no frass, no webbing, no movement, and healthy new growth: mechanical damage is the likely answer.
  4. Think back over the last few weeks.
    Think back over the last few weeks.Moved, bumped, repotted, shipped, a curious pet, a leaf pinched against a wall?
    MoreIf the damage maps to an event, that's strong confirmation.

What a bumped plant needs.

Nothing.Trim badly damaged leaves if they bother you; the plant heals on its own.

Not physical damage?

Thrips damage: silver streaks across a leaf
Thrips

Torn, silvery edges can look like thrips scarring.

MoreNo black specks and no repeating pattern means the damage is physical.

See thrips

Not it? Back to all pests

A torn leaf held beside clean new growth

Still think something's eating it?

Send us the damaged leaf and the newest one, and we'll tell you if anything's eating it.

Send us your leaf info@fgmnnursery.com

Black mold on a leaf? Look up for the drip.

A leaf top darkened by sooty mold under a stem of mealybugs

Black sooty mold on a leaf below a stem of mealybugs.

Sooty mold grows on honeydew, the sticky drip from aphids, mealybugs, scale and whiteflies feeding above it. The mold itself is harmless dirt; it only blocks light.

Wipe it off, then look up. Whatever is dripping is what to treat.

Questions

Leaves can't talk. Here's what they'd say.

When the damage is clear and the culprit isn't.

Brown spots. Who did it?

Depends who left them. Spider mites cause stippled, bronze-brown discoloration, with fine webbing on the leaf underside. Thrips leave silver-brown streaking with tiny black frass. Fungal disease or root rot causes soft brown patches that spread with a yellow halo. Mechanical damage leaves fixed, crisp-edged brown marks that don't spread. Brown tips and edges usually point to low humidity, salt buildup or uneven watering rather than pests.

Do I need an app to name the bug?

No. The damage is easier to spot than the culprit. Many common pests, spider mites, broad mites, russet mites and thrips among them, are nearly invisible to the naked eye. Each pest above lists what you're seeing and why it points to that pest. A white sheet of paper and good light are all you need.

Is it root rot?

The key sign is wilting despite moist soil. Healthy roots take up water; rotted roots can't, so the plant wilts even when you've just watered. Other signs: a musty or sour smell from the soil, lower leaves yellowing and dropping, and roots that are dark brown to black and mushy, with an outer layer that slides off when squeezed. Healthy roots are white and firm.

Spider mites or thrips?

Spider mite damage is even, pale stippling across the leaf, like fine sandpaper, with fine webbing on the underside by mid stage. Thrips damage is silver-white streaks with shiny black specks (frass) beside them. Spider mites can leave dark specks too, but never the silver streaks. Thrips also damage new growth before it unfurls; spider mites damage leaves that are already open.

Can I skip the sprays?

Yes. Every pest here has something that works against it, from predators to a root-guarding fungus, and mechanical damage needs nothing at all. Take the matchmaking quiz to find the right one for your plants.

A hand turning a speckled leaf over to see the undersideTop and underside. That's the photo we need.

Can't find your leaf in here?

Send a photo of the top and the underside of a damaged leaf to info@fgmnnursery.com. We'll name it and tell you what eats it.

Send us your leaf Shop all treatments