Aphidius matricariae

Aphidius matricariae is an elite specialist for small-bodied aphids. It excels at controlling:

• Green Peach Aphid (Myzus persicae) – Its preferred host.
• Cannabis Aphid (Phorodon cannabis) – Often used in rotation for early-stage infestations.
• Tobacco Aphid (Myzus persicae var. nicotianae)
• Various small vegetable and ornamental aphids

To achieve maximum efficiency, maintain the following climate:

• Temperature: Performs optimally between 15°C – 25°C (59°F – 77°F). It remains active at slightly cooler temperatures than other parasitic wasps.
• Humidity: Thrives in relative humidity between 60% and 80%.
• Light: High light intensity improves searching behavior; however, it is not dependent on day length and can be used effectively in winter.

Choosing the correct wasp depends entirely on the size and species of the aphid you are fighting. Use this guide to ensure you select the right specialist:

• Choose Aphidius matricariae if: You are dealing specifically with Green Peach Aphids. It is faster and more aggressive than colemani for this specific pest and performs better in slightly cooler environments.
• Choose Aphidius colemani if: You have a mix of Melon/Cotton Aphids or other very small species. Colemani is the "generalist" for small aphids but is less efficient on Green Peach Aphids than matricariae.
• Choose Aphidius ervi if: You have large-bodied aphids like Potato, Foxglove, or Pea aphids. Ervi is much larger and physically capable of taking down bigger hosts that matricariae cannot

• Release Timing: Introduce at the first sign of aphids or preventatively in "at-risk" crops.
  
• Application: * Open the bottle inside the treatment area. Walk through the crop, holding the bottle at a 45° angle to let emerged adults fly out. Sprinkle the remaining mummies (often mixed with buckwheat or vermiculite) into release boxes or onto rock wool slabs in dry, shaded areas.
  
• Ant Control: Control any ants in the area first, as they will protect aphids and attack the wasps to preserve their honeydew source.
  
• Monitoring: Look for "mummies" (golden-brown, bloated aphid shells) about 10–14 days after release. A neat, round hole in the back of the mummy confirms a new wasp has emerged.

• Live Arrival Guarantee: Shipped via Overnight Express to ensure maximum viability.
• Packaging: Bottles are shipped in insulated containers with cold packs.
• Immediate Action: These are live organisms with a short shelf life. It is recommended to release them on the day of arrival. If a short delay is necessary, store them in a cool, dark place at 4°C – 10°C (40°F – 50°F) for no more than 48 hours.

Absolutely not. Aphidius species are "micro-wasps," roughly the size of a gnat. They do not have a defensive sting like a yellowjacket or hornet. They are only interested in aphids and are 100% safe to release in homes, offices, and greenhouses around people, cats, and dogs.

Keep an eye on your aphid colonies. About 10–14 days after release, you should start seeing "mummies"—aphids that look bloated and have turned a papery golden-brown or bronze color. If you see a tiny, neat circular hole in the back of a mummy, it means a new wasp has already hatched and is currently patrolling your plants for more pests.

It depends on what you used. Aphidius are very sensitive to broad-spectrum chemical pesticides (like Pyrethroids or systemic Neonicotinoids). However, they are generally compatible with "soft" treatments like Horticultural Oil or Insecticidal Soap, provided the leaves are completely dry before you release the wasps. Always check the "buffer period" for any chemical used in the last 4 weeks.

Ants are a major obstacle for biocontrol. They "farm" aphids for their sweet honeydew and will aggressively protect them by attacking and killing your Aphidius wasps. For the wasps to be effective, you must control the ant population first using baits or barriers so the wasps can access the aphids undisturbed.

Once the food source (aphids) is depleted, the adult wasps will naturally die off or fly away to find new colonies elsewhere. They cannot survive without aphids to parasitize, so they will not become a permanent "resident" in your home once their job is done.

Yes. These are live organisms with a very high metabolism. They are shipped at the peak of their life cycle to ensure they start hunting immediately. Storing them in the fridge for more than 48 hours significantly reduces their energy and search ability. For the best results, open the bottle and release them the same day they arrive.