Adalia Bipunctata (Two Spotted Ladybugs) Larvae

Adalia bipunctata is a specialist predator. While they may opportunistically feed on pollen or small soft-bodied insects, they are the gold standard for:

• Primary Target: Aphids (all species, including Green Peach, Melon, and Root Aphids).
• Secondary Targets: Thrips larvae, Spider Mites, and Mealybugs (only when aphids are scarce, though they are less efficient at clearing these than specialized mites).

They are highly adaptable biological controls that thrive in both indoor grow rooms and outdoor gardens, provided they have access to moisture and a consistent food source. In outdoor environments, ladybugs prefer temperate conditions with plenty of low-growth vegetation and "landing pads" like broad-leafed plants, especially during the cooler hours of dusk or dawn. For indoor cultivation or greenhouse settings, ladybugs perform best in stabilized temperatures between 18°C and 27°C with a relative humidity of 50% or higher. Because ladybugs are naturally attracted to light (positive phototaxis), indoor release requires managing light sources to prevent them from congregating on lamps rather than the canopy. Whether indoors or out, the most critical factor for "settling" ladybugs is the presence of soft-bodied prey like aphids, scale, or mites, and a light misting of water on foliage to encourage hydration and immediate foraging.

Choosing a biological predator is a matter of matching the "hardware" to the pest. Here is how to decide if our Native US Ladybugs are your best move:

• Ladybugs vs. Mites: Choose Ladybugs for large, visible colonies of Aphids or Mealybugs. Choose Predatory Mites for microscopic, "hidden" threats like Spider Mites or Broad Mites that live in the tight crevices of new growth.
• Ladybugs vs. Lacewings: Choose Ladybugs for immediate "knock-down" power (they arrive hungry and mobile). Choose Lacewing Larvae if you are working under 24-hour grow lights, as they don't fly and won't be distracted by the light.
• Ladybugs vs. Sprays: Choose Ladybugs to avoid chemical residues and "burn" on sensitive foliage. They are self-guided, searching every leaf so you don't have to.

Putting ladybug larvae out is actually a fairly simple process.

Mist the Canopy: Before release, give your plants a light misting of water. This acts as a "hydro-anchor" to keep your new ladybugs from flying away simply because they're thirsty.

Night Shift Only: Release them at dusk or 15 minutes after your lights go out. This gives them all night to hydrate, settle in, and find their first meal.

Start at the Bottom: Sprinkle them onto the lower stems or the soil at the base of the plant. They naturally crawl upward, so they’ll scan every leaf on their way to the top.

Look for the "Alligators": If you see weird, spiked larvae that look like tiny alligators a week later—congrats! Those are ladybug babies, and they are even more voracious hunters than the adults.

Keep them chill: If you need to, you can keep your ladybugs in the refrigerator - not the freezer! - for a week or so. The cool puts them into diapause, a they will simply "hibernate" until you're ready for them. Don't wait too long, this can kill them.

Overnight Express: To ensure they arrive hungry and healthy, all Adalia larvae are shipped via Overnight delivery. We prioritize speed to minimize stress and prevent the larvae from preying on each other during transit.

Protective Packaging: Your larvae arrive in a breathable, escape-proof container filled with a natural carrier material (like buckwheat husks or shredded paper). This provides cushioning and critical hiding spots to keep them safe during their journey.

Unboxing: It is normal for larvae to be still or curled up upon arrival due to temperature changes. Allow the container to sit at room temperature for 15–20 minutes. Once they warm up, they will become active and ready to hunt immediately.

Live Arrival Guarantee: We guarantee live delivery on all overnight shipments. Please ensure someone is available to receive the package—leaving these live predators in a hot mailbox or freezing porch can be fatal.

No, and that is their biggest advantage! You are purchasing larvae, the "teenager" stage of the ladybug. They are completely flightless. Once you place them on a plant, they are physically incapable of leaving until they finish growing and turn into adults (which takes about 2–3 weeks). They stay exactly where the food is.

Do not be alarmed! Ladybug larvae look nothing like the red beetles you know. They look like tiny, spiky black and orange alligators. This is the most aggressive feeding stage of their life. If you see these "monsters" crawling on your leaves, do not kill them—they are your cleanup crew.

Since they cannot fly to find food, placement is key.

1. Locate the worst aphid clusters on your plant.
2. Gently tap the larvae out of the container (or use a small paintbrush) directly onto the infested leaves.
3. Because they are flightless, they will immediately start searching that specific leaf for prey.

Don't throw them away! When a larva is full, it will attach itself to a leaf and form a hard shell (pupa). It may look like a dried-up bird dropping or a dead husk. This is the "cocoon" stage. Leave it alone for a few days, and a fresh, adult Adalia beetle will emerge to continue the patrol.

Larvae are voracious eaters. For a standard 6-inch plant with a visible infestation, 3–5 larvae are usually sufficient to clear it. For larger plants or heavy infestations, use 10–15 larvae. Because they can't fly, you can be very precise with your numbers.

No. Adalia bipunctata larvae are harmless to humans and pets. They are strictly interested in soft-bodied pests like aphids. They do not have wings to fly into your coffee, and they do not infest household furniture. They are purely interested in living on your plants.