Plant Pest & Damage Identification Guide – FGMN Nursery
Pest & Damage ID

What's wrong with your plant?

Select a pest from the list, or filter by the symptom you're seeing. Each entry shows early, mid, and advanced damage photos — plus exactly what to look for to confirm the diagnosis.

Early spider mite damage
What to look for Tiny pale speckling across the upper leaf surface — like dust that won't wipe off. Flip the leaf: look for moving specks near the midrib.
Early Stage
Spider Mites
Tetranychus urticae & others

The leaf surface looks dull, dusty, or lightly freckled — almost like someone scattered fine pepper across it. This is stippling: spider mites pierce individual plant cells and drain their contents, leaving tiny empty pockets that scatter light differently than healthy tissue. At this early stage there's no webbing yet, and the mites themselves are nearly impossible to see with the naked eye. The damage is most visible on the upper leaf surface, but the mites live and feed on the underside.

1
The tap test — most reliable at any stage
Hold a white sheet of paper under a damaged stem and tap it sharply twice. Spider mites fall and show up as tiny moving dots on the paper. At early stage you may only see 4–5. At advanced stage you'll see dozens. If nothing moves, it's not spider mites.
2
Flip the leaf and look near the midrib
Spider mites congregate on the leaf underside, especially near the central vein. Use your phone camera on macro mode — they appear as tiny amber, pale yellow, or red specks. They move slowly but steadily. At early stage you're looking for maybe 10–20 individuals.
3
Check stem joints for webbing
Run a finger along the underside of where a leaf meets the stem. Spider mite webbing is extremely fine and silky — finer than a cobweb. At early stage it may only be a faint resistance. At mid stage it becomes clearly visible. No webbing at early stage doesn't rule out spider mites.
4
The stippling pattern is uniform — not streaky
Spider mite stippling covers the leaf surface relatively evenly, creating an overall dull or bronze cast. If instead you're seeing silver streaks running along the leaf, with tiny black specks nearby — that's thrips, not spider mites. The presence of frass (black specks) rules out spider mites entirely.
Spreads viaAir currents, clothing, other plants — extremely fast in hot dry conditions
Worst conditionsHot, dry, low humidity. Populations can double every 3–5 days above 27°C
Visible to eye?Barely. ~0.5mm. Most people see the damage before the mite.
Common misdiagnosisNutrient deficiency, sunburn, mineral deposits on leaves
Thrips
Thrips leave silver streaks along the leaf, not uniform stippling. The definitive tell: thrips leave tiny black frass (droppings) on the leaf surface. Spider mites never do. Check with a loupe — if you see black specks, it's thrips.
Russet Mites
Russet mites cause bronzing that moves upward from the base of the plant. Spider mite damage appears wherever feeding occurs, not in a directional wave. Russet mites also never produce webbing.
StipplingBronzingFine webbingMoving specks on leaf underside
Early thrips damage
What to look for Silver-white streaks on the upper leaf surface, and tiny black specks nearby. Those specks are frass — the most reliable early indicator of thrips.
Early Stage
Thrips
Frankliniella occidentalis & others

Thrips rasp the surface of plant cells and drink what comes out. The silvery-white streaks and patches you're seeing are collapsed, emptied cells — the leaf surface has been scraped away. Unlike spider mite stippling which dots the leaf evenly, thrips damage creates irregular streaks and patches, often concentrated on newer leaves. The tiny black specks scattered nearby are thrips frass (droppings) — their presence is the single most reliable indicator that you're dealing with thrips and not another pest.

1
Look for frass on the upper leaf surface
Tiny black or dark brown specks scattered across the leaf surface — particularly near the silvery damage areas. This is thrips excrement and it's specific to thrips feeding. Spider mites, broad mites, and russet mites never leave frass. If you see black specks, it's almost certainly thrips.
2
Check new growth before it unfurls
Thrips prefer to feed inside leaves before they open. If your newest emerging growth consistently looks damaged, scarred, or deformed before it has even fully unfurled, thrips are the most likely explanation. This is distinct from spider mites, which damage leaves that are already open.
3
Shake onto white paper to find adults
Hold a white sheet of paper under the plant and shake or tap a stem firmly. Thrips fall as tiny, slender, fast-moving slivers — pale yellow (larvae) or dark brown to black (adults). They move quickly and purposefully, unlike spider mites which wander slowly. If nothing moves, try a different part of the plant.
4
Look for larvae in leaf folds and flowers
Use a hand lens or phone macro to inspect the folds at the base of leaves, inside flowers, and at growing tips. Pale yellow or white larvae (they look like tiny pale worms) tucked in the folds confirm an active infestation. Adult thrips are only 1–2mm but visible — thin, dark, and fast.
Life cycleEggs laid inside plant tissue, larvae feed on leaves, pupate in soil, adults emerge in 2–3 weeks. Treat both plant and soil.
Worst conditionsWarm, dry environments. Populations explode indoors in winter heating season.
Virus riskHigh. Thrips spread Tomato Spotted Wilt Virus (TSWV) between plants. Isolate affected plants.
Common misdiagnosisSpider mites, broad mite damage, wind damage, physical abrasion
Spider Mites
Spider mites cause uniform stippling across the leaf, not streaks. There is no frass. Spider mites produce webbing; thrips never do. The tap test will show spider mites as slow-moving dots — thrips move fast and run.
Broad Mites
Broad mite damage also affects new growth, but causes downward cupping and distortion — not silvery streaking. No frass with broad mites. Broad mites never produce the characteristic silver scarring pattern.
Silver streakingBlack frassDeformed new growthFlower damage
Early broad mite damage
What to look for New leaves cupping downward and inward at the margins. Older leaves look completely normal. If only new growth is affected, broad mites are suspect.
Early Stage
Broad Mites
Polyphagotarsonemus latus

Broad mites are 0.2mm — completely invisible without magnification. They feed exclusively on new, actively growing tissue, injecting a toxic saliva as they feed that disrupts cell development. The result is new leaves that emerge already damaged: cupped downward, leathery or brittle in texture, and asymmetrical in shape. The key diagnostic clue is that only new growth is affected — established leaves look completely healthy. This pattern is highly specific to broad mites and separates them from almost every other pest.

1
Only new growth is damaged — established leaves are fine
Walk through the plant systematically. Mature leaves should look entirely healthy. If the damage is concentrated exclusively on the newest 2–3 leaves and the growing tip, and older growth looks good, this pattern strongly indicates broad mites. Almost no other pest presents this way.
2
New leaves cup downward — not upward
The direction of leaf curl is diagnostic. Broad mite damage causes new leaves to curl downward and inward at the edges. Russet mite damage causes upward curling. This single observation is one of the fastest ways to separate these two invisible mite species. If new growth curls up, think russet mites; if it curls down, think broad mites.
3
20x magnification at the base of new growth
Use a jeweller's loupe or the maximum zoom on a phone camera, focused at the very base of a new unfurled leaf — the petiole junction or the growing tip. Broad mites concentrate here. They're translucent to pale yellow and oval-shaped. You're looking for very small, slow-moving specks that are distinctly smaller than spider mites.
4
Rule out overwatering and low humidity first
Both overwatering and low humidity can cause new growth to emerge cupped or stunted. The distinction: environmental issues affect the whole plant over time and improve when conditions change. Broad mite damage is consistent and progressive — every new leaf that emerges is deformed, regardless of watering adjustments.
Visible to eye?No. 0.2mm. Requires 20x magnification to confirm visually.
Worst conditionsWarm and humid. Spread rapidly in greenhouse conditions.
Spreads viaPhysical contact between plants, contaminated tools, thrips (broad mites hitch-hike on thrips adults)
Common misdiagnosisOverwatering, low humidity, thrips damage to new growth
Russet Mites
Russet mites cause damage that progresses upward from the base of the plant. Broad mites damage only new growth regardless of position. Russet mites cause upward leaf curl; broad mites cause downward curl.
Thrips
Thrips also damage new growth, but leave silver scarring and black frass. Broad mites cause distortion and curling with no surface scarring and no frass.
Downward-cupped new growthOnly new growth affectedLeathery textureNo visible mites
Early russet mite damage
What to look for Lower stems and petioles with a pale, greasy, or slightly silvered appearance. Damage starts at the base and moves upward — check the bottom of the plant first.
Early Stage
Russet Mites
Aculops lycopersici & others

Russet mites are 0.15mm — invisible without magnification — and they feed on the surface of stems and leaves, causing the tissue to bronze, dry out, and roughen. The most distinctive feature of a russet mite infestation is its directional spread: always from the base of the plant upward. Your lower leaves and stems are worse than your upper growth. This wave-pattern bronzing is rarely caused by anything else and is one of the fastest ways to distinguish russet mites from other problems that look similar at a glance, including nutrient deficiencies and drought stress.

1
Check the direction of spread — it moves upward from the base
Look at your lower stems and petioles first. If those are worse than the upper growth, and the plant looks like it's bronzing from the bottom up, that's the russet mite signature. Virtually no nutrient deficiency or environmental problem creates this specific directional pattern.
2
Leaves curl upward at the edges
Russet mite feeding causes leaf edges to curl upward and inward. This is the opposite of broad mite damage, which curls downward. Run your eye along the leaf margins of affected leaves — an upward curl combined with bronzing, particularly on lower leaves, strongly suggests russet mites.
3
Feel the stem surface — it should feel greasy or rough
Run a finger along a lower stem. Healthy stems feel smooth. Russet mite damage makes stems feel slightly rough, greasy, or with a pale greyish cast. The stem surface may look almost matt rather than its natural sheen. This tactile indicator is often noticed before the visual damage becomes obvious.
4
20x loupe on stem surface — you may see movement
At heavy infestations, examining an affected lower stem under a jeweller's loupe at 20x or higher may reveal a faint shimmering or movement across the stem surface. Russet mites are elongate and wedge-shaped. You're not looking for individual mites so much as a shimmering mass on the tissue.
Visible to eye?No. 0.15mm. Smaller than spider mites. Requires 20x+ magnification.
Worst conditionsHot and dry — similar to spider mites. Populations explode in summer and in dry indoor environments.
Spreads viaWind, contact between plants, contaminated tools
Common misdiagnosisNutrient deficiency (especially magnesium), drought stress, broad mites
Broad Mites
Broad mites affect only new growth, regardless of position on the plant. Russet mites damage in a directional upward wave. Broad mites curl leaves downward; russet mites curl upward.
Magnesium Deficiency
Magnesium deficiency causes yellowing between leaf veins (interveinal chlorosis), usually on older leaves first. Russet mite damage bronzes the whole leaf surface and moves upward. No interveinal pattern with russet mites.
Upward bronzing from baseUpward leaf curlRough greyed stemsNo webbing
Early flat mite damage
What to look for Faint oily or water-soaked patches on the leaf underside, following the vein structure. Tiny reddish-orange specks pressed flat along veins under magnification.
Early Stage
Flat Mites
Brevipalpus spp.

Flat mites are extremely flattened — almost paper-thin — which allows them to press tight against leaf surfaces and hide in crevices that other mites can't reach. They feed slowly, and early damage is very easy to overlook: faint oily or water-soaked patches on the leaf underside that follow the vein structure rather than spreading uniformly across the leaf. This vein-following pattern is the key diagnostic feature. The damage doesn't look like insect feeding — it can easily be mistaken for a water splash, fungal infection, or early viral symptoms.

1
Damage follows vein structure — not uniform across the leaf
Look at the pattern of discoloration. Flat mite damage appears along or adjacent to leaf veins — oily patches, corky roughening, or discoloration that maps to the vein network. Damage that spreads uniformly across the leaf independent of vein structure is unlikely to be flat mites.
2
Feel the texture along veins
Run a fingernail gently along a midrib or major vein of an affected leaf. Flat mite damage makes the tissue feel slightly corky, rough, or raised compared to the smooth healthy leaf surface around it. This tactile change is often detectable before the visual damage is obvious.
3
Look for reddish-orange specks pressed along veins
Under a 20x loupe, flat mites are visible as tiny reddish-orange specks pressed flat against the leaf surface — particularly along veins on the underside. They move very slowly and are easy to miss because they don't move much. Unlike spider mites, they don't produce webbing of any kind.
4
Both old and new growth affected — unlike broad mites
Flat mites feed on established leaves as well as new growth. If you're seeing vein-associated damage on mature, established leaves as well as new growth, broad mites are ruled out (they only damage new tissue). Flat mites can also affect woody stems and bark, which separates them from most other mite species.
Visible to eye?Barely. Reddish-orange, very flat, pressed against surface. Need magnification to confirm.
Spreads viaPlant contact, contaminated tools, possibly wind at low rates
Damage typeCorky russeting along veins. Can also cause viral-like symptoms — Brevipalpus mites transmit plant viruses.
Common misdiagnosisFungal infection, viral symptoms, russet mite damage
Oily patches along veinsCorky vein damageReddish specks under magnification
Early aphid infestation
What to look for Clusters of soft, pear-shaped insects on stem tips and leaf undersides — green, black, white, or yellow depending on species. Look for papery shed skins nearby.
Early Stage
Aphids
Aphididae family

Aphids are one of the most visible pests — you can often see them with the naked eye as clusters of soft, pear-shaped insects on new growth and stem tips. Color varies by species: green, black, white, grey, or yellow. They feed by inserting a stylet into plant tissue and extracting sap, excreting the excess as sticky honeydew. What makes aphids dangerous is their reproductive speed — a single female can produce 80 offspring per week without mating. A small cluster you dismiss today can become a plant-covering colony within 10 days. The shed white papery skins they leave behind are often more visible than the insects themselves.

1
They cluster — check stem tips and leaf undersides
Aphids don't spread individually across leaf surfaces. They congregate in dense clusters on new growth, stem tips, and the undersides of soft young leaves. Check those specific spots. A single aphid away from a cluster is unusual — if you're finding individual insects spread across leaves, it may be something else.
2
Look for shed white skins near the colony
As aphids grow they molt, leaving tiny papery translucent white skins behind. These accumulate near feeding colonies and are often easier to spot than the insects themselves, particularly when the aphids are green and blend with the plant. Finding these shed skins near new growth is strong evidence of aphids.
3
Follow the ants
Ants actively farm aphids — they protect them from predators and move them to fresh growth in exchange for honeydew. If you see ants moving purposefully up and down your plant stems, follow them. They will lead you directly to the aphid colony. Ant activity on an otherwise healthy plant is always worth investigating.
4
Press a finger onto the cluster — they're soft-bodied
Aphids are entirely soft-bodied and will smear and leave a residue when pressed. Scale insects look superficially similar but are hard-shelled and won't smear — they'll feel like a small bump you have to scrape away. This simple touch test instantly separates aphids from scale.
Reproduction speedExtremely fast. All-female colonies, no mating required. Can double every 1–2 days in warm conditions.
Virus riskHigh — aphids are vectors for over 100 plant viruses. Winged forms spread viruses to new plants.
HoneydewSticky coating on leaves and surfaces below — secondary sooty mold follows within days
Easy to spot?Yes. One of the few pests visible to the naked eye at most stages.
Soft clustered insectsShed white skinsSticky honeydewSooty moldAnt activity
Early mealybug infestation
What to look for White cottony or fluffy masses in leaf axils and stem joints. Looks like tiny lint or cotton. Check every crevice — one missed colony will restart the whole infestation.
Early Stage
Mealybugs
Pseudococcidae family

Mealybugs are soft-bodied insects covered in a white waxy powder and surrounded by white waxy filaments — the distinctive cottony or fluffy appearance. They hide in protected locations: leaf axils, stem joints, the base of petioles, and along the undersides of leaves. The wax coating protects them from many contact treatments and makes them one of the most persistent houseplant pests. What makes mealybugs particularly difficult is the crawler stage — newly hatched nymphs are nearly invisible, mobile, and spread the infestation to every part of the plant and to neighboring plants before you realize it's happening.

1
Check every crevice with a torch — they hide methodically
Use a flashlight and work through the plant systematically: every leaf axil, every stem joint, the base of every petiole, and the undersides of leaves. Mealybugs always choose the most protected spots. A casual glance won't find them. If you're finding one colony, look for three more.
2
Confirm with isopropyl alcohol
Dab a cotton bud in isopropyl alcohol and press it onto a white mass. If it's a mealybug, it will dissolve and leave a faint orange-pink smear — that's the insect body inside the wax. Powdery mildew (which can look similar) won't react this way. This is the definitive confirmation test.
3
Look for wax threads along stems — crawlers precede the colony
Before you find adult mealybug colonies on a new area of the plant, you may notice faint white wax threads running along stems. These are left by mobile crawlers spreading from an established colony. Finding these threads tells you the infestation is actively spreading to new areas.
4
Check the root ball if treatment isn't working
Root mealybugs are a separate species that colonize root systems. If you're treating foliage thoroughly and the plant continues to decline or the infestation keeps returning, unpot the plant and inspect the roots and root ball. Root mealybugs look like white woolly patches on roots and the inner surface of the pot.
Why they're hard to eliminateWaxy coating resists contact pesticides. Eggs protected inside egg sacs. Crawlers spread before detection.
Isolation urgencyHigh. Crawlers are nearly invisible and will infest every plant in contact range within days.
Root mealybugsA separate species requiring soil treatment. Suspect if foliage treatment fails repeatedly.
Common misdiagnosisPowdery mildew, scale insects, cottony cushion scale
White cottony masses in stem jointsHoneydewSooty moldYellowing
Early whitefly infestation
What to look for Shake or brush a leaf — whiteflies erupt in a visible white cloud. The feeding stage is nymphs on the leaf underside: flat, oval, pale green, and immobile.
Early Stage
Whitefly
Trialeurodes vaporariorum & others

Whiteflies are one of the easiest pests to identify — the adults are distinctive tiny white moth-like insects, 1–2mm, that erupt in a visible cloud when the plant is disturbed. But the adults are just the visible indicator. The actual damage is done by the nymph stage: flat, oval, pale green, scale-like insects attached to the underside of leaves, immobile, and easy to overlook. The nymphs drain plant sap and excrete honeydew, leading to sooty mold and yellowing. Adult whiteflies are also efficient virus vectors — containing an infestation quickly matters.

1
Disturb the plant — the white cloud is diagnostic
Shake a stem or brush your hand across the foliage. Whiteflies respond by flying up in a visible white cloud. This is the fastest and most unmistakable confirmation — no other common houseplant pest behaves this way. Even a light disturbance at early stage will reveal adults if they're present.
2
Flip a mid-age leaf and check the underside
The nymphs (feeding stage) are on the leaf undersides. Look at middle-aged leaves rather than the newest or oldest. You'll see flat, oval, pale green or yellowish insects attached to the surface — they don't move when you look at them. Each nymph is about 0.7–1.5mm. A heavily infested leaf underside may look encrusted or scaly.
3
Check for honeydew and yellowing from the base upward
Whitefly infestations typically cause yellowing that starts at the lower, older leaves and progresses upward. Run a finger along the upper surface of a lower leaf — if it feels sticky, that's honeydew. Sooty mold follows honeydew within days, blackening the upper surface of leaves below the infestation.
Life cycle challengePupal stage is resistant to most treatments. Multiple treatment cycles required to break the life cycle.
Virus riskHigh. Silverleaf whitefly is one of the most significant plant virus vectors.
Spreads viaFlight — adults move actively between plants. Can spread through a collection rapidly.
Common misdiagnosisScale insects (nymphs), general yellowing attributed to overwatering
White cloud when disturbedScale-like nymphs on leaf undersidesHoneydewSooty mold
Early scale infestation
What to look for Small brown or tan bumps on stems and leaf undersides that don't move. Try to scrape one off — if it lifts as a discrete shell with a soft body inside, it's scale.
Early Stage
Scale
Coccidae & Diaspididae families

Scale insects are among the most deceptive pests — they look so much like part of the plant that people often mistake them for natural bark features, lenticels, or old leaf scars. They appear as small, flat to slightly domed bumps: brown, tan, white, or grey depending on the species. There are two main types: soft scale (slightly domed, waxy, produces honeydew) and armored scale (hard, flat shell, no honeydew). Both feed by inserting needle-like mouthparts into plant tissue and draining sap. The immobile adult feeding stage is what you're seeing — mobile crawlers disperse to new locations and are nearly invisible.

1
Try to scrape a bump off with your fingernail
This is the definitive test. Scrape one of the suspect bumps with your fingernail or a toothpick. Scale lifts off as a discrete shell — it pops away cleanly from the stem surface. A natural bark feature or lenticel is part of the stem tissue and won't separate cleanly. Under the shell you'll find either a soft body (soft scale) or a dry, flattened insect (armored scale).
2
Check for honeydew to identify soft scale
Run a finger along the upper surface of leaves below a cluster of bumps. Soft scale produces copious sticky honeydew that drips down. Armored scale does not produce honeydew. If the leaves below your bumps are sticky, you have soft scale. Sooty mold growing on those same surfaces further confirms active soft scale feeding.
3
Look for crawlers with a loupe in late spring
Mobile crawlers — the only dispersal stage — are most active in spring and early summer. Under a 10–20x loupe you may see tiny, flat, oval, mobile insects moving away from established colonies. They're yellow to pale orange and the size of a period on this page. Finding crawlers confirms an actively reproducing infestation rather than a historical one.
Soft vs armoredSoft scale: domed, waxy, produces honeydew. Armored scale: harder, flatter, no honeydew. Different treatments apply.
Why hard to treatHard shell protects adults from contact sprays. Need systemic or crawler-stage treatment.
Spreads viaMobile crawlers, contaminated tools, incoming plants
Common misdiagnosisBark lenticels, old stem scars, mealybugs, aphids
Brown/tan bumps on stemsHoneydew (soft scale)Sooty moldBranch dieback
Fungus gnats near soil
What to look for Tiny dark flies hovering near the soil surface or flying up when the pot is moved. The adults are the indicator — the larvae feeding on roots underground are the real problem.
Early Stage
Fungus Gnats
Bradysia spp.

Fungus gnats are small (2mm), dark, weak-flying insects that hover around the soil surface and scatter when you approach. The adults are harmless and don't bite — they're just the visible symptom of what's happening underground. The larvae live in the top 2–3 inches of moist soil, feeding on fungal matter, organic debris, and plant roots. For established plants with mature root systems, this is rarely catastrophic — roots regrow faster than larvae can damage them. The real risk is seedlings, cuttings, and young plants with limited root mass, and the secondary infections that larval feeding wounds create.

1
Watch the soil surface undisturbed for 30 seconds
Fungus gnats are weak fliers and spend much of their time crawling or hovering just above the soil. Observe the soil surface without disturbing it. Adults will be visible walking across the surface or hovering within a centimetre or two. A single adult sighting usually means there are hundreds of larvae below — adults only represent about 10% of the population.
2
Potato slice test — confirms larvae
This is the most reliable larval confirmation. Press a fresh slice of raw potato onto the soil surface, cut side down. Leave it for 24 hours undisturbed. Lift the slice and examine the cut face and the soil contact area. If fungus gnat larvae are present, you'll find small, translucent white worms (1–5mm) with distinctive black heads. Finding them confirms active infestation.
3
Yellow sticky trap at soil level
Place a yellow sticky card horizontally at the soil surface. Fungus gnats are strongly attracted to yellow and will be caught within 24 hours if present. This also tells you the scale of the infestation — 5 gnats on a trap is very different from 50. Check traps daily. Traps catch adults only — you still need to treat the larvae in the soil.
Risk to established plantsLow. Roots regrow faster than damage occurs. Treat to avoid secondary infection and remove cosmetic nuisance.
Risk to seedlings/cuttingsHigh. Limited root mass means larval feeding can be fatal. Treat aggressively.
Secondary infection riskLarval feeding wounds admit Pythium and other root pathogens — more damaging than the gnats themselves.
Root causeConsistently moist soil. Letting soil dry between waterings breaks the breeding cycle.
Root Rot
Both cause root damage and can present as unexplained wilting or decline. Fungus gnat larvae create white threadlike damage channels; root rot turns roots black and mushy with a sour smell. Check both: they often occur together, since larval feeding opens the door to rot pathogens.
Tiny dark flies near soilWhite larvae in soil with black headsRisk highest in seedlings
Early root rot signs
What to look for Wilting despite moist soil. This is the key indicator — healthy roots take up water, rotten roots can't. The plant wilts even after you've just watered.
Early Stage
Root Rot
Pythium, Phytophthora, Fusarium & others

Root rot isn't a pest — it's a fungal or oomycete infection of the root system, caused by consistently waterlogged soil that creates anaerobic conditions where pathogens thrive. The above-ground symptoms are indirect: the plant wilts, yellows, and declines not because of a pathogen attacking the leaves but because the root system can no longer transport water and nutrients upward. This is why wilting despite moist soil is the key diagnostic signal. A healthy plant with healthy roots should not wilt when the soil is wet. When it does, something has compromised the roots.

1
Check soil moisture against the plant's condition
Push your finger 5cm into the soil. If the soil is wet or damp and the plant is still wilting, that's the key diagnostic flag. Water-stressed plants wilt in dry soil — that's normal. A plant wilting in moist soil cannot absorb water properly, which almost always means root damage.
2
Smell the soil — root rot has a distinctive odour
Healthy soil smells earthy and fresh. Root rot produces a distinct sour, musty, or sulphurous smell from the anaerobic bacterial activity in waterlogged zones. This smell is often detectable before you see visible root damage. Trust your nose — if the soil smells wrong, it almost certainly is.
3
Unpot and inspect the roots directly
Gently remove the plant from its container. Healthy roots are white to cream-coloured, firm, and turgid. Rotted roots are brown to black, soft, and mushy — the outer cortex (the white layer) slides off the inner stele when you press or drag a finger along the root, leaving a thin wire-like core. The distinction is stark and unambiguous once you've seen it.
4
Rule out fungus gnats and root mealybugs
Wilting despite moist soil is also a symptom of severe fungus gnat larval damage or root mealybug infestation — both damage root systems. Check: fungus gnat larvae leave visible white threadlike worms and black-headed grubs in the soil. Root mealybugs appear as white woolly patches on roots. Check before assuming root rot, since treatment differs significantly.
Primary causeOverwatering + poor drainage. Waterlogged soil creates anaerobic conditions where Pythium and Phytophthora thrive.
Can it be saved?Sometimes. At mid stage with some healthy roots remaining, aggressive repotting into dry media and root treatment gives reasonable odds.
PreventionWell-draining media, pots with drainage holes, watering only when soil is appropriately dry for the species.
Common misdiagnosisUnderwatering (plants wilt in both cases), fungus gnat damage, root mealybugs
Wilting despite moist soilMushy brown-black rootsSour smell from soilLower leaf drop
Early leafminer damage
What to look for A pale winding trail under the leaf surface — a tunnel left by a larva feeding between the upper and lower epidermis. Hold the leaf to a light to see it clearly.
Early Stage
Leafminers
Liriomyza spp. & others

Leafminers are the larvae of small flies, moths, or beetles that hatch inside a leaf and spend their entire larval life tunnelling between the upper and lower epidermis, eating the green tissue (mesophyll) inside. The winding trails they leave — mines — are completely specific to leafminers. No other pest or condition creates a pale, winding tunnel through the interior of a leaf. The mine starts narrow where the larva hatched and widens as the larva grows, often ending in a broader blotch where it pupates. This widening tunnel is one of the clearest diagnostic patterns in plant pest identification.

1
The serpentine mine pattern is unmistakable
No other common pest creates winding tunnels through the interior of a leaf. The trail is below the surface — you can't wipe it away or scratch it off. If you can see a pale, winding, slightly translucent track running through the leaf tissue, it's a leafminer. The pattern is so distinctive that finding it once makes it unforgettable.
2
Backlight the leaf with your phone torch
Hold the leaf up against a phone flashlight or bright window. The mine appears as a translucent channel through the leaf — the tissue inside the tunnel is consumed and hollow, so light passes through differently. At the end of an active mine you may see the larva itself as a small dark speck. A widening blotch at the mine's end indicates the larva has finished feeding and is about to pupate.
3
Look for exit holes to determine if infestation is active
When the larva pupates, it cuts a small semicircular exit hole at the end of the mine and drops to the soil. Finding fresh mines without exit holes means larvae are still feeding. Mines with exit holes mean that generation has already pupated — the damage is done, but new adults may be laying eggs on the same plant.
Damage severityPrimarily cosmetic. Rarely fatal to established plants but weakens them and opens pathways for infection with repeated infestation.
Life cycleEgg laid in leaf tissue → larva mines for 1–3 weeks → pupates in soil → adult emerges and lays more eggs.
Spreads viaAdult flies moving between plants. Eggs laid on or in leaf tissue.
Common misdiagnosisThrips (surface scarring vs. internal tunnel), fungal lesions
Serpentine pale trails in leafInternal tunnel below surfaceWidens toward a blotch
Mechanical plant damage
What to look for Damage with clean, irregular, or torn physical edges that doesn't repeat across the leaf surface. New growth coming in undamaged. A traceable physical cause.
Minor
Mechanical Damage
Physical injury — not a pest

Physical damage to leaves, stems, or roots from handling, environmental impact, or animals. The key characteristic of mechanical damage is that it's static — it happened once and doesn't progress. There are no repeating patterns, no insects, no secondary symptoms like honeydew or sooty mold. New growth emerges undamaged. The wound browns and heals at the edges over time rather than spreading. Mechanical damage is frequently mistaken for thrips by new growers — the torn, silvery-looking edges of physical damage can look superficially similar to thrips scarring. The absence of frass and the non-repeating pattern separates them immediately.

1
New growth is coming in undamaged
This is the most reliable indicator. Every pest causes ongoing damage — new growth that emerges after an infestation begins will show symptoms. If your newest leaves are coming in perfectly healthy and only older leaves have damage, the cause is almost certainly physical rather than biological. Monitor for 1–2 weeks of new growth to be certain.
2
The damage doesn't repeat across the leaf surface
Pest damage creates patterns that repeat — stippling dots across the leaf, streaks in the direction of feeding, circular mining paths. Mechanical damage has random, irregular edges that match the shape of what caused them: a torn edge from rubbing furniture, a crease from being bent, a puncture from a sharp object. The shape of the damage is physically explicable.
3
Check for insects thoroughly — absence confirms mechanical
Spend 60 seconds with a loupe or phone macro checking the undersides of damaged leaves and nearby healthy leaves. Check stem joints, leaf axils, and the soil surface. If you find no insects, no frass, no webbing, and no movement — and new growth is healthy — mechanical damage is the most likely explanation.
4
Think back to what happened to the plant recently
Mechanical damage almost always has a traceable cause. Was the plant recently moved, bumped, repotted, or shipped? Did a pet investigate it? Did a leaf get pinched between a pot and a wall? Did someone brush past it regularly? The damage usually maps to a specific event. If you can identify the cause, that's strong confirmation.
Treatment needed?No. Remove severely damaged leaves if aesthetic. The plant heals on its own.
Will it spread?No. Physical damage is static. It doesn't progress unless the cause continues.
New growthComes in healthy. If new growth is also damaged, there's a secondary pest issue to investigate.
Common misdiagnosisThrips (silvery torn edges look similar), wind damage, animal chewing
Fixed, not spreadingClean or torn physical edgesNew growth unaffectedNo insects or frass

Common questions

  • Brown spots have several common causes. Spider mites cause stippled, bronze-brown discoloration — check for fine webbing on the leaf underside. Thrips leave silver-brown streaking with tiny black frass. Fungal disease or root rot causes soft brown patches that spread with a yellow halo. Mechanical damage produces fixed, crisp-edged brown marks that don't spread. Brown tips and edges typically indicate low humidity, salt buildup, or inconsistent watering rather than pests. Select a symptom above to narrow down what's happening on your specific plant.

  • The most reliable approach is to focus on the damage pattern, not just try to spot the insect. Many common pests — spider mites, broad mites, russet mites, thrips — are invisible or nearly invisible to the naked eye. Each pest entry in this guide includes a set of diagnostic observations that describe exactly what you're seeing and why it points to a specific pest. The tools you need are a white sheet of paper, a phone camera on macro mode, and occasionally a jeweller's loupe for the microscopic mites.

  • The key indicator is wilting despite moist soil. Healthy roots take up water; rotted roots can't, so the plant wilts even when you've recently watered. Other signs: a musty or sour smell from the soil, lower leaves yellowing and dropping, and roots that are dark brown to black, mushy, with an outer cortex that slides off when squeezed. Healthy roots are white and firm. See the Root Rot entry for full details on how to confirm and treat.

  • Spider mite damage appears as uniform pale stippling across the leaf — like fine sandpaper — with fine webbing on the underside at mid stage. Thrips damage creates silver-white streaks with tiny black frass (droppings) on the leaf surface. That frass is the definitive test: spider mites never produce frass. Thrips also damage new growth before it unfurls; spider mites damage leaves already open.

  • Yes — all 13 pests listed here have biological control options. Predatory mites, beneficial insects, and nematodes are effective against spider mites, thrips, fungus gnats, aphids, mealybugs, whitefly, and more. FGMN has 20 years of experience matching growers with the right predators for their specific pest and growing conditions. Take the matchmaking quiz to find the right treatment for your situation.

Still not sure what you're dealing with?

Send us a photo of the damage. We'll identify it and point you to the right treatment — not just a product link.