Hb Nematodes

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Hb Nematodes

At A Glance

Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (Hb) is the heavy-duty "Hunter" of the nematode world. While some species wait near the surface for prey to pass by, Hb nematodes are "cruisers" that actively tunnel deep into the soil to hunt down sedentary pests. They are the gold standard for lawn care, specifically targeting the white grubs that destroy grass roots. Unlike chemical grub killers that can harm pets and pollinators, Hb uses a specialized tooth-like structure to break into pests and release symbiotic bacteria, turning the host into a nutrient source.

  • Scientific Name: Heterorhabditis bacteriophora

  • Best For: Lawn Grubs (Japanese Beetles, Chafers), Root Weevils, and Queen Ants.

  • Safe For: Turf, gardens, pets, and children.

  • Key Feature: The "Deep Diver"—actively hunts pests deep in the root zone where others cannot reach.

Target Pests

Hb is a specialist predator for slow-moving, deep-soil larvae that chew on roots.

  • Primary Targets: Japanese Beetle Grubs, European Chafer Grubs, Masked Chafers, and June Beetles.
  • Secondary Targets: Black Vine Weevils, Strawberry Root Weevils, and Cucumber Beetles.
  • Ant Control: Hb is one of the few nematodes effective against ants, as they can attack the Queen deep in the nest, forcing the colony to move or die out.
  • The "Red" Sign: When Hb kills a host, the pest often turns a distinct reddish-brown color due to the specific bacteria they release.
Environmental Needs

Hb is a warm-season nematode and requires specific conditions to hunt effectively.

  • Temperature: They are heat-loving and perform best when soil temperatures are above 54°F (12°C). They are less effective in early spring cold snaps compared to Sf nematodes.
  • Moisture: Critical. They use water films to swim deep into the soil. Dry soil stops them in their tracks.
  • Soil Type: They work well in sandy and loamy soils where they can move easily, but may struggle in extremely compacted clay without aeration.
Selection Guide

Not sure if you need pure Hb or a mix? Here is how to decide.

  • Choose Pure Hb (The Grub Killer): If your primary problem is your lawn dying in patches due to White Grubs or Japanese Beetles. This is the concentrated solution for deep-root eaters.
  • Choose Sf (The Gnat Killer): If you are treating indoor plants for Fungus Gnats. Hb is generally "overkill" and too deep-diving for shallow gnat larvae.
  • Choose Triple Blend (The All-Rounder): If you have Grubs plus surface pests like Fleas or Ticks. The blend gives you coverage at all depths.
  • Choose Sc (The Ambusher): If you are targeting mobile surface pests like Fleas or Caterpillars. Hb is too slow to catch these fast movers.
How to Use

Timing is everything with Hb nematodes, as you must target the grubs when they are active.

  • Preventative Rate: Apply 1 package (e.g., 5 Million) per 250 sq. ft. once in late Summer (August/September) when young grubs hatch.
  • Curative Rate: For active grub damage (yellow patches, loose turf), double the density (e.g., 5 Million per 125 sq. ft.) and apply every 2 weeks for 2–3 rounds.
  • Prep: Mow your lawn short and water thoroughly before application to help the nematodes reach the soil.
  • Mix: Dissolve the carrier into water and stir well.
  • Apply: Use a hose-end sprayer (set to "free flow" or 1:15 ratio) or a watering can. Remove any mesh filters to prevent clogging.
  • Post-Care: Water immediately after application to wash the nematodes off the grass blades and down into the root zone. Keep the lawn moist for at least 7 days.
How They're Shipped

Packaging: Shipped in a dormant state in a carrier powder or gel.

Viability: The paste/powder will look inactive until mixed with water.

Storage: Refrigerate immediately. Hb is more temperature-sensitive than other species. Store at 38-42°F for up to 3 weeks. Do not freeze.

FAQ

What is your Live Delivery Guarantee?

We guarantee that your beneficial insects will arrive healthy and ready to work. Because we are shipping live organisms, we use packaging and expedited shipping to ensure their safety. In the rare event that your order is compromised during transit, please take a photo of the package and contact us within 24 hours of delivery so we can make it right.

When is the best time to apply for Japanese Beetles?

The ideal window is Late Summer to Early Fall (August–September). This is when the beetle eggs hatch into young, vulnerable grubs. Treating in Spring is harder because the grubs are large, tough, and about to pupate.

Will this stop the beetles flying around my roses?

Not immediately. Hb kills the larvae (grubs) in the ground, preventing them from turning into beetles next year. It is a long-term population control strategy, not a quick spray for adult beetles on leaves.

My lawn is brown. Is it too late?

If the grass is already dead (pulls up like a carpet), the roots are gone. However, applying Hb now will kill the grubs before they spread to the green parts of your lawn or return next year.

Can I use weed and feed products?

Avoid using high-nitrogen chemical fertilizers or herbicides for 72 hours before and after application. High chemical salts can dehydrate the nematodes.

How deep do they go?

Hb nematodes are capable of digging down 6–8 inches or more in loose soil to find prey, which is significantly deeper than other species like Sc or Sf.

Why is the carrier powder clumpy?

The carrier material can absorb moisture during transit. This is normal. Just break it up vigorously in the water bucket before pouring it into your sprayer. The clumps are just carrier; the nematodes will dissolve out into the water.

Help! I'm overwhelmed

Yeah, it's a lot the first time you're using predatory mites. Please email us at info@fgmnnursery.com and we'll be happy to help!

I don’t see anything moving in my bottle or sachet. Does that mean they’re dead?

Not at all! In fact, go ahead and deploy them.

Predatory mites are microscopic (often less than 0.5mm) and naturally blend into their carrier medium (bran or vermiculite).

  • For Bottles: The mites often huddle in the center of the bottle for insulation during transit.
  • For Sachets: These are "slow-release" nurseries. The mites stay tucked deep inside the breeding media and emerge one by one over 2–4 weeks. Seeing an "empty-looking" sachet or bottle is not proof of a loss; it is simply how they are packaged for maximum survival.

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