Green Lacewing Larvae

The larvae are apex generalist predators with a particular "seek and destroy" instinct for:

• Aphids: Every species (Green Peach, Melon, Potato, etc.)

Will opportunistically eat:

• Thrips: Aggressively hunts larvae and pupae in the canopy.
• Mealybugs: Effective against crawlers and younger nymphs.
• Two-Spotted Spider Mites: Clears "hot spots" where mite populations are peaking.
• Whitefly: Consumes eggs and sessile nymphs.

Because these are active hunters, they are slightly more resilient than eggs, but thrive in:

• Temperature: 15°C – 32°C (59°F – 90°F).
• Humidity: 40% – 70% RH. Larvae tolerate lower humidity much better than eggs.
• Habitat: Best used in dense foliage or "heavy" canopies like Alocasia and Philodendron where they can hide and hunt.

Choosing larvae over eggs is a strategic decision based on the severity of your pest issue:

• The "Emergency" Choice: If you see curling leaves or visible clusters of aphids, choose larvae. Eggs take 3–5 days to hatch; larvae start eating in seconds.
• Guaranteed Success Rate: Larvae bypass the delicate hatching phase. You are paying for active hunters, not potential ones.
• Precision Targeting: Larvae can be "spot-treated" directly onto a specific leaf or plant that is struggling.
• Generalist vs. Specialist: While an Aphidius wasp needs a specific aphid host, Lacewing larvae are not picky—they are the best "clean-up" crew for mixed-pest outbreaks.

Direct Release: Open the container only when you are next to the plants.

Application: Gently sprinkle the carrier material directly onto the foliage of your 6" plants.

Strategic Placement: Focus on the "hot spots"—under leaves, near new growth, and inside leaf sheaths of aroids.

Timing: Release in the evening or when grow lights are dimmed to prevent the larvae from crawling away from the light.

Dose per 6" Plant: For an active infestation, we recommend 10 larvae per plant.

Lacewings arrive as eggs, packed in carrier material — the dry, loose medium filling the container. It looks like packing debris. It isn't; it's what keeps the eggs spread out and cushioned in transit. Deploy the whole mix, eggs and carrier together, across the plant and surrounding soil. Don't try to pick the eggs out.

The eggs hatch about 24 hours after you receive them. You almost certainly won't catch it happening, and you probably won't spot the larvae afterward either.

The eggs are minute, and the larvae that emerge are barely larger — about the size of this comma, translucent, and pale. Against soil, bark, or a leaf, they read as nothing at all. They also don't linger. A newly hatched lacewing larva is hungry the moment it emerges and disperses within minutes, fanning out across the plant to hunt alone. Part of why they scatter so fast is that they'll eat each other if they don't — so spreading out isn't optional for them. On top of that, they favor leaf undersides, crevices, and the sheltered interior of the canopy, staying out of open sight. So the window to see one is short, the larva itself is nearly invisible, and it's actively tucking itself away the entire time.

Watching the aphids thin out over the following days is how you know they arrived.

We know it's tempting, but please do not leave them in the bottle hoping to see them hatch. They will immediately consume one another. We will not replace them in that circumstance.

We recommend waiting at least 48–72 hours after applying organic oils or soaps before releasing larvae. While these treatments have no residual "poison," their physical coating can hamper the larvae's ability to move or breathe. Always rinse your plants with fresh water and let them dry before introducing beneficials.

If the food source runs out, the larvae will instinctively wander to find more. In a contained indoor environment or grow tent, they may attempt to cannibalize other larvae if they remain crowded. Once they finish their growth cycle (about 2 weeks), they will spin a small, white silk cocoon and pupate.

While they are "lions" to aphids, they are harmless to humans and pets. Occasionally, if a larva is handled or crawls on your skin, you might feel a tiny "pinch" as they investigate if you are prey, but they have no venom and cannot break human skin.

Because they are shipped as 2nd instar, they are visible to the naked eye but can be camouflaged by the buckwheat hulls. To check for activity, gently pour a small amount of the carrier onto a white piece of paper; after a few seconds of warmth, you will see the small, alligator-shaped larvae begin to move.

No. Chrysoperla carnea larvae are canopy-dwellers. They are biologically programmed to climb upward toward the light to find aphids and thrips on leaves. For soil-borne pests like Fungus Gnats or Root Mealybugs, we recommend pairing these with our Nematodes or Hypoaspis miles.

Large, established 2nd instar larvae have strong legs and can hold their own against standard ventilation. However, we recommend turning off high-powered oscillating fans for the first 1–2 hours after release. This allows them to settle into the "crooks and crevices" of your aroids without stress.